i8tonite

Month: May 2013

Memorial Day: Remembrances of Cold Noodles Past

On Memorial Day, when we honor those in uniform, I’m eternally gratefully to those that have served.

This holiday was always the official start of New York City summers. Manhattan would empty out and become a ghost town. I fondly recall my beautiful school friend Christine, who eventually packed up and moved to Europe. It was Chris that introduced me to my first bowl of cold noodles at a small but bustling Chinese place on Broadway and Canal Street in NYC’s Chinatown. Being of Chinese descent and her father owning a Jersey establishment, she was the conduit and teacher to what are now some of my favorite Chinese items such as Scallion Pancakes, dumplings and Spicy Cold Noodles with Peanut Butter.

There are a number of variations hailing from throughout Asia (and adapted by Americans) using cold rice noodles with a different nut butters. Mixed into that is some water, chili paste or red pepper flakes, sesame oil, garlic, sugar, citrus and ginger. Incredibly simple and great for a hot summer day of memories and recollections as well as creating new ones. Definitely, tons of carbs for walking the myriad of Manhattan hot, steaming streets which as poor college students, we did often. It would be Chris, Teresa, Annie and me hiking from the bottom of Broadway to South Central Park overwhelmed by the displays in shop windows.

Whenever the weather is beautiful, I break this out of my memory banks. Immediately as I taste the sweet and spicy paste perfecting the right amount of heat, sweetness and chewiness of the noodles, I think of Christine and other really important friends that I have been apart of my life while on this planet. It’s a funny thing how food does that don’t you think? Enjoy your Memorial Day with those you love and love you in return.

You Will Need:
Cold Noodles (made ahead and chilled) about a half box of spaghetti or rice noodles.
1/2 cup of creamy peanut butter (or chunky depending on your preference. You can use sesame, almond and nut butter will do.)
Chili garlic paste or sauce/ red pepper flakes
Teaspoon of honey
Quartered lemon/lime
Water
Sesame Oil
1 tablespoon each of grated ginger and garlic

Let’s Finish This Puppy:
1. In a small bowl, we are mixing the nut butter with a couple squirts of chili garlic paste or a couple of dashes of red pepper flakes.
2. Add some water, maybe about a cup to thin out the butter into a creamier sauce. Add a little water at a time, maybe a 1/2 cup each time. It will thicken back up.
3. Add the honey and citrus. Mix.
4. Couple of dashes of sesame oil plus the ginger and garlic. Mix until…
5. Once you have reached a consistency of a thin paste, pour it over the cold noodles. If it starts to get clumpy and a little more water by the teaspoon ful. Chop up some scallions and/or cucumber for a garnish. Voila….

Vegan to boot. Serve this with simply grilled chicken, beef, tofu or even some halibut might be a nice twist.

May 27, 2013
Farmers Market Haul and Lulu’s Gardening Class

Let’s begin with lovely Lulu’s gardening class before we get to Farmers Market Haul.

Shelley, Lauren, one of Lulu’s co-workers and Lauren’s husband, Chris, along with me, were students in Lulu’s backyard for her first-ever gardening class. Lu has been gardening since she was a child back in her homestate of Pennsylvania. It was always one of her aspirations to create an edible garden where she could cook and share her plantings. Since she purchased her home over 8 years ago in the PicFair District of Los Angeles, she has fashioned a dozen raised beds where many varieties of home-grown edibles have ripened to seasonal perfection. Being an urban/surburban kid and thinking for many years that vegetables came hidden in a supermarket’s underbelly, I’m massively awestruck by her cultivation of cantalopes and watermelons…. along with being supplied gifts from her seasonal harvests which have included lettuces (romaine, red leaf, and green leaf), tomatoes (some which she has used for canning and I used for sauces), cucumbers, artichokes, eggplant, basil, spaghetti squash, raspberries, blueberries, lemons, limes….and on and on. In each one of the approximate 2 1/2 feet by 6 feet areas, the soil has been tilled, rested and loved to reap some of the most deliciously edible gems I’ve had. There is nothing like direct farm to table to do a body good.

In this class, Lu’s immense knowledge was demonstrated when she dug up her compost turning out a dark, rich and thoroughly alive concoction with do-gooding worms (pictured). The class was a fully active hour and a half experience. For this city slicker, it still shows the difficulties of being a 21st century farmer. Farming is an arduous task. It’s about the right amount of water, sun and nutrients but I can absolutely see it’s rewards for the grower as I was rewarded cuttings from Lulu’s hardwork such as baby kale, zucchini, squash blossoms, and fresh mint.

All of this, on this Memorial Day weekend, brings me to Farmers Market Haul. Today, it was tiny Japanese bell peppers (Yakatori Farms), purple baby artichokes (SunCoast Farms), beautiful frisee, mizuna and baby chard (Windsor Farms), green Zebra Rita’s and baby spinach (McGrath Family Farms), small sweet Maui onions for grilling (Can’t remember the farm…), and rosemary (ABC Rhubarb).

(It was a small shopping excursion as I had the vegetables Lulu gave me from the class.)

I love the Hollywood Farmers Market. A weekly Sunday ritual like heading to church without the pie bake off at the end. It’s reminiscent of NYC’s Union Square Market. I prefer HFM before 11:00am, before my shins are black and blue from the strollers, wagons and pushcarts but still appreciate that families bring their kids to learn about food and its production. I love the urbanity of it: hipsters with their multiple canvas bags; the mid-thirty parents, who gave their nanny the day off, and are clutching too many children and too many vegetables; the single women holding onto lattes and the bottom of their maxi-dresses; the married gay men, leering over organic zucchini and the street musicians giving the market it’s soundtrack.
There’s no competition between farmers. One of the farmers didn’t have Bloomfield spinach, a fave lovely lettuce, and pointed me to another canvas stall ala “Miracle on 34th Street”/Macy’s vs. Gimble’s sort of way. I feel like this is the way life should be, simple, uncomplicated, free of CNN’s ticker tape, which is located around the corner.

One of the great things at HFM, I get to learn about my food and ask questions of the individual purveyors. I get to know them, they know me. They become a constant. I like that. It’s a small village atmosphere in a metropolitan city. The market is there to serve and keep me, in my mind, safe…that’s why I go. Its one of the few times in my week…when out of my car and out of my apartment… I feel sheltered and we are there to buy nourishment and feel nourished.

And…no matter what I think of war or our politicians, it’s people whom I’ve known such as the farmers who had many children go to war, who help feed the young men and women who have served our country….to both, I salute you.

May 26, 2013
Meatless Monday: Grilled Caesar Salad (just Meatless) and Family Suppers

Restaurant and Waiting Tables

It’s a funny thing about Caesar Salads. They bring me right back to waiting tables/bartending or working in a restaurant kitchen. Many of the “family meals” when I worked in restaurants consisted of a salad, burgers, pizza or pasta. There was never any of the slaved over staff dinners that is being touted in the new cookbook “OFF THE MENU: Staff Meals from America’s Favorite Restaurants”. (Lucky them!) In the almost 2 decades of not working in eateries, clearly the times have changed since I plied my trade for tips or peeled potatoes. (I wonder how many publicists actually worked in a commercial kitchen?)

Secondly, I love the salad…when made right. They have a wonderful garlicky and salty crunch that reminds me of eating a potato chip. It’s that bite of lettuce snapping and saltiness from the dissolved anchovy. (Yep, a Caesar with anchovies…kind of novel, huh?) And, then made with a coddled egg, (yep, again a little more novelty… made with an egg) just cooked so the yolk is still runny to give it the unctuouness, clinging to the Romaine and holding the freshly grated Parmesan.

Thirdly, bringing me back to where I started, the family meal at a restaurant…when the dinner shift began at one of the five New York City restaurants that I had worked in during the 80s and early 90s, and my co-workers, some of who are friends to this day, would talk about their mornings and afternoons, of auditions, of gallery installations, of stapling resumes to headshots, of writing….or of getting over last night’s hangover…of being in my early 20s.

Lastly, they remind me of warm New York City summer nights with blaring taxis horns, beautifully curvaceous women wobbling in excessively high shoes, worked out men in tight T-shirts and baggy jeans, neon lights, shots of tequila and one of the happiest times in my life. (Of course, I wish I knew it then.)

Grilled Caesar Salad with Homemade Croutons

Who knew that all these memories came in a salad and some nourishment too?

YOU WILL NEED (2 servings):
1 clove garlic
2 anchovies (or paste).
1 egg
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 juice of one lemon
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly grated Parmesan (However much you want)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 heads romaine lettuce
Croutons (Store bought or homemade. Make it easy on yourself. Do what you want and have time to do.)

GRILL THE LETTUCE (Or skip this altogether and chill lettuce for about 5 minutes in the freezer. If you do this, just tear the lettuce apart just before you dress it.)
1. Heat grill.
2. Peel outer leaves of romaine off until you get to the heart. (Or you can leave a couple of the dark leaves on.) Cut in half.
3. Brush cut side with olive oil, salt and pepper.
4. Place on grill until slightly charred and wilted.
5. Remove from grill.
6. Arrange prettily on plates, cut side up.

LET’S MAKE THE DRESSING:
1. Using the blade of a knife, carefully make a paste with the anchovy and garlic. Just mash it together and add a little…just a drop or two of oil.
2. Put this paste and the remaining ingredients… egg yolk, mustard and lemon juice… into a mixing bowl or food processor.
3. Whisk or process for about 30 to 40 seconds until the mixture is smooth. (If whisking, go a little longer. If you are really anal about it, pull out the timer and set it for a minute…and whisk.)
4. Now add the olive oil slowly until it becomes mixed and a little thicker, similar to a thin aoili (this may not happen if you are using a whisk…but give it a try.)
5. Add some Parmesan, a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper. (Get a pepper grinder if you don’t have one. It makes a huge difference.) You can refrigerate the dressing if you make a little too much.

LET’S FINISH THIS PUPPY UP:
1. Arrange the heads of lettuce cut side up.
2. Pour the dressing in a ‘Z’ pattern over lettuce.
3. Use enough dressing for you to be satisfied and happy. Dress the the salad to your liking but don’t over do it. (Remember, you pay that trainer at the gym a lot of money.)
4. Sprinkle with the freshly grated Parmesan.
5. Arrange croutons, ever so….
6. Voila!
7. Take a picture and upload to Instagram. (Most important part. You can use my photo if you don’t think yours is photogenic. You have my permission.)

May 20, 2013
….at David’s: Rubbed Pork Chops and Grilled Radicchio

May is National Salad Month, which to my less than haute cuisine mind (I grew up on canned beans and Hamburger Helper) means salads of lettuces and maybe another variety of vegetable tossed with a dairy dressing (mix in a little packet of dried herbs from a non-existant Ranch).

As I grew up and became a little more traveled and experienced chefs from around the world, I became intrigued by what salad meant to them. It could be cold noodles with fish, oranges mixed with radishes or slightly grilling a lettuce.

At David’s this week, we paired up his delicious Rubbed Pork Chops (rosemary, fennel, oregano and Mexican chili) with a Grilled Radicchio and a salad of Albion Strawberries with Mustard Frills and Arugula.

Herb Rubbed Pork Chops, Grilled Radicchio and Mustard Frills, Arugula and Starwberry Salad.

As the warmer weather continues, everything will get grilled. Another favorite is Grilled Cesar Salad with Homemade Croutons. I also love grilling fruit and mixing them in with lettuces.

Grilled Peach Salad with Blueberries, Manchego, and Spinach

For Grilled Radicchio, you need:
1 or 2 small heads of Radicchio
Olive oil for brushing
Salt and Pepper

Simplicity:
1. Halve the heads.
2. Brush the cut side with olive oil. Place on grill. Close grill lid for about 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Look for grill marks, if there, remove.
4. Should be slightly wilted.

Let’s finish this up:
Place cut and grill marked side up. Salt and pepper. Serve up!

May 19, 2013
…at Shelley’s: Bean and Swiss Chard Soup

Shelley is, without a doubt, one of my best friends. She’s always there for me. Recently, she took care of Holly, my beautiful pitbull. “Big Girl”, as I call her lovingly, is best friends with Carlos, Shelley’s 85 pound Golden Retriever (aka “Big Boy). While I drove my mother back to the Inland Empire after her birthday and Mother’s Day extravaganzas here in Los Angeles, Shelley watched Holly. The two canines romp and growl, growl and romp in her backyard, while she works and watches their rough-housing. Shelley also loves to cook. What more can you ask of a friend? A dog-sitting service and a food goddess in one person. Wow!

Shelley loves to make beans but not just any beans, she sources the for freshest suppliers and looks for inventive ways to prepare the lovely legumes. We’ve had many conversations about our favorite and it really is Rancho Gordo by Steve Sando. Tastier than just buying regular beans at the market. Rancho Gordo brand is the best and you can truly taste the difference between chain store and his.

Shelley was kind enough to say to me after dropping off, Holly, “Do you want to stay for dinner when you pick her up? I made a pot of beans.” I’m like alright. Two hours to my mother’s place and then the drive back. Who wants to cook after all that driving? IHOP starts looking good by then. She took care of Holly, I can stay and eat too.

Bean & Swiss Chard Soup with Orzo

And she made a delicious bean soup. On this night, I was the sous chef to Shelly’s cooking. I peeled and smashed the garlic. Turned the rosemary and anchovies into a paste. Washed dishes. Shelley sauteed up the chard, browned the garlic and stirred in the paste. The dogs played happily and were under our feet.

Lulu, one of my other besties, came over in a chic new bob and joined us impromptu. She’s starting an urban gardening class in her backyard which is a pretty stellar idea. Lu is a pretty amazing gardner. In her Los Angeles urban backyard, she grows corn, melons, a variety of squash and lettuces. She picks raspberries, blackberries and blueberries for her morning breakfast. We’ve had fresh teardrop heirloom tomatoes and used the homegrown herbs to add addtional flavor to our dishes. Lemons, limes and grapefruit also start brightening up her trees around this time. When I lived with her, we had regular baby artichokes for grilling. A little homemade infused garlic oil for dipping….yum and directly from the farmer….Lulu.

There we sat, two dogs, two great women and me eating a flavorful soup of beans, vegetables and orzo. Talking and laughing. This is when life is great.

*Note: This is just one recipe…Shelley’s and its from my memory. There are a lot of recipes out there on this soup that includes bacon, pancetta, different beans. Whatever. Be adventurous.

YOU WILL NEED:
1 lb dried white beans such as Great Northern, cannellini, or navy (2 cups), picked over and rinsed (Make the beans or use canned if it’s the weekday. Hey, we lead busy lives.)
2 anchovy fillets or anchovy paste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 fennel bulb, chopped
1 onion, chopped
4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium chicken broth (or vegetable broth if you want to keep it vegetarian)(Homemade stock is best, but let’s not quibble, not everyone is going to want to make their own or have the time. If you don’t make your own, buy organic stock and skip anything that requires a can-opener)
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced
1/2 lb Swiss chard (or Red or Rainbow, Kale and Spinach would do well too), stems discarded and leaves halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced crosswise

MAKE THIS EASY:
1. De-stem the chard and cut up the leaves.
2. Saute up the Chard (or spinach or kale or dark green leafy vegetable) until limp.
3. Set aside.
4. Take your pot, something to hold the liquid and place olive oil. Heat up the oil.
5. Peel, smash and place garlic in olive oil until brown. We are infusing the olive oil with the garlic. Remove the cloves.
5. Make a paste with chopped rosemary leaves and anchovy fillets. Add to infused garlic olive oil.
6. Stir until dissolved.
7. Add beans, chard and stock.
8. Get it to boiling and add orzo or small pasta.
9. Simmer until pasta is cooked.

LET’S FINISH THIS PUPPY:
Ladle into bowls and top with grated Parmesan cheese. Serve with a crusty bread. Voila!

May 16, 2013
Farmers Market Haul and Mother’s Day Frittata

Farmers Market Haul and Mother's Day Frittata.

May 12, 2013
Farmers Market Haul and Mother’s Day Frittata

Farmers Market Haul for May 12, 2013.

You know its the beginning of summer with berries, stone fruit and tomatoes at almost every stall in the market. I went to my favorites ABC Rhubarb, Windsor Farms, McGrath, Drakes’ Family Farm for goat cheese, and St. Mortiz Bakery for a crusty French baguette that was a perfect size. I also purchased some asparagus and always a variety of lettuces, lemons, and onions. Lemons are, for me, completely necessary for a marinade, a dressing and just to drizzle on grilled or roasted chicken.

MOTHER’S DAY

“You know what it is, honey, food is love.” – Streisand as Joyce, GUILT TRIP

Last night, my mother and I watched GUILT TRIP with Striesand and Seth Rogen. Interesting. Cute. Not hilarious but some poignant moments especially if you had just spent 5 hours in the car with your mother like I did. I was picking her up from her home two hours away and driving back to Los Angeles, where I live. It wasn’t 8 days, like in the movie, but sometimes 5 hours can seem like infinity especially in stop-n-go traffic. (When I was 7, my mother and I took a road trip across country on Interstate 10. We drove through the Southern states, Arizona, Texas, Georgia….Certainly, one of the greatest memories of my life.)

So the film and it’s theme resonated with me as I went about my weekly Farmers Market shopping excursion. Cooking is about giving back, food is love, etc. My mother wasn’t the most prodigious of homecooks as I was growing up. She was a single, working mother. Hard enough. But, she loves reading my food posts and is an ardent fan of mine. (Surprise.) And I wanted to do something special.

We both aren’t into noisy crowds and she’s not really able to get around as swiftly so I thought the easiest thing to do was to make something at home. Besides, she loves tomatoes and they were everywhere so I wanted to buy some for her. (She loves tomato sandwiches. Mayo, tomato, on white bread.) We could only do that if I cooked. I originally thought of an omelet with Cheddar, Tomato and Asparagus but that would mean two pans. (One for her, one for me.) With a frittata, which as we know, I’m fond of making, it’s one pan clean-up. Ultimately, that’s what she got for Mother’s Day, a frittata but I wound up making a Drake’s Family Farm Goat Cheese & Red and Green Pepper Frittata. Served with a Bloomfield Spinach Salad tossed in a Balsamic Vinagrette with fresh Albion Strawberries.

Made with Drakes’ Family Goat Cheese

The Big Beef Tomato needs it’s own stage and not lost in egg. Besides, my mother worked hard all her life and deserves the first taste of summer lushness simply. So on her birthday tomorrow, as she turns 77, it will be sliced, with a little mayo on a crusty baguette.

Happy Mother’s Day!

May 12, 2013
Dinner at Mark’s

There is nothing like being with friends. Then, there’s nothing like being with friends and eating. Lastly, there’s nothing like being with friends, eating and laughing as we like to do when you sit down over homemade Indian dinner of Mulligatawny Stew, Spicy Pan Fried Cauliflower and Eggplant with Red Peppers.

Eggplant with Roasted Peppers

It’s a connection that we don’t find so much as when there is a waitperson hovering around asking you what you want to eat. At someone’s house, after drinks are served, which you normally pour for yourself after inspecting each label, you walk into the kitchen and peer into the savory-smelling pots, asking, “What’s this? It smells so good!”

I’m blessed that I have friends who love to cook and share their food with me. I do think it’s truly a gift. Someone has taken the time out of their schedule to shop, slice and dice, and serve something made by their hands. It’s an emotionally soul-satisfying experience, kicking back and gossiping, talking about our latest trials and tribulations as being in their home or mine. It’s an intimate exchange between people and honestly, I’ve never ever had a bad meal at someone’s house. I really can’t say that about a restaurant.

Oven Roasted Indian Potatoes and Cauliflower

Mark’s Indian Oven Roasted, Spiced Cauliflower & Potatoes

YOU WILL NEED:
1 (or 2 small) cauliflower, cut into florets
lb Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons minced fresh jalapeño, including seeds
2 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 cup water

COOKING:
TO start: Place a shallow baking pan on rack, while preheating oven to 475°F. You are getting the pan hot to begin roasting the vegetables.

Then, mix: Toss cauliflower and potatoes together in a bowl with 3 tablespoons oil, cumin seeds, and1/4 teaspoon salt. Spread in hot baking pan and roast, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower is tender and browned in spots and potatoes are just tender, about 20 minutes.

Continue with rest of ingredients: While vegetables are oven-roasting, cook onion, garlic, jalapeño, and ginger in remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until very soft and beginning to turn golden. Add ground cumin, coriander, turmeric, cayenne, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring constantly, for a couple of minutes.

Let’s finish this puppy: Stir in water, scraping up any brown bits from bottom of skillet, then stir in roasted vegetables. Cook, covered, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.

May 11, 2013
Far and Near Markets: Ojai Farmers Market

There are so many great farmers markets or food shopping districts throughout the world. Each one is representational of the community and inhabitants it serves. Whether its Kreta Ayer or Paris’ Rue de Montorgueril home to Bresse chickens and crusty baguettes, they are a slice of everyday life. I love them.

Fresh farmers markets are one of my favorite things on Earth. I get a high from meeting the people who have planted the seeds, toiled the ground and cultivated my heirloom lettuces. I appreciate their hardwork on my behalf and cooking with them. So on my travels, I want to shop and cook what I see but it’s often hard if you are staying in a hotel. Luckily, I’ve visited enough times to several places or lived in areas where I can get around fairly easily on public transportation without a concierge or hotel such as New York’s Union Square or in Turin, home to original Eataly. (Jaw-dropping, if you have never been here, and the city is home to the Slow Food Movement.)

Last year was, strangely, my first time to really visit the farmers market in Ojai, California. One of my best friends, Shelley, had been displaced from her home, and decided to rent a place for two months in the town. We discussed a visit for a couple of nights while I was on my way to Sonoma County for work. And the only thing I wanted to do was to visit the farmers market and cook.

California is home to about 75 % of our nation’s produce and as such this small, hippie-esque town of artists and farmers has access to much of the best organically grown produce in the state, since agricultural country is, essentially, it’s backyard.

Ojai Farmers Market

We wound up doing making a Grilled “Surf and Turf” with a Cilantro Pesto. Everything being purchased at the Ojai Farmers Market.

Halibut and Steak with Cilantro Pesto. Served with Heirloom Tomato Salad.

May 7, 2013
Farmers Market Haul (May 5, 2013)

Beautiful lettuces and assorted items.
It was strange Spring “Cinco de Mayo”. The southern California Santa Ana winds were blowing making it a little blustery and there was a strange grayness to the day, probably caused by the wildfires near Camarillo. There was a bit of humidity but you still needed a jacket.

Still, it’s Sunday and the Hollywood Farmers Market, so it’s become my favorite day of the week because of it. There is nothing like getting to know the farmers, and in turn, they know you. For me, it gives me a beautiful sense of community, one that I don’t get in a corporate grocery store. Going directly to the source and learning, as I did today, that peaches start early and are small. As the season goes on into summer, they are larger and more of a variety to choose from. (At the market, Reiger Farms had the first peaches and nectarines of the season).

Additionally, today’s purchases included Bloomfield spinach (again, from Windsor Farms), stunning rose-like green and red lead lettuces, radicchio, peaches and nectarines for salads, lemons and onions (always).

I also bought a delicious raw milk cheddar from Spring Hill Farms in Petaluma. It’s not exactly local but better than the Trader Joe’s stuff. It has a slight tanginess, offsetting the rich lushness of the milk.

Let’s see what I comes out the food this week.

May 5, 2013