Month: August 2014

  • How to NOT Make a Cabbage Patch Dull

    cabbage_0

    My friend Mark is a homecook like me but he loves to make complicated Moroccan food. The dishes that are thirteen thousand ingredients and counting. I do not. I want my food and cooking. It’s not that I don’t think that dishes with a lot of ingredients aren’t tasty; on the contrary, I find them delicious. I just like making things that are unfettered. Personally, I just want to taste 4 or 5 ingredients.  Good quality ingredients with a simple preparation; very much like Alice Waters.

    Mark recently asked me to help him cook a Moroccan dinner which was a thoughtful gift that he gave to a recently married couple. I was honored that he would ask for my help and since it had grown into a party of 10, he needed it. As part of the menu, he already planned two tagines: one lamb and one chicken, a fish b’stilla (the savory pie), cous-cous and roasted vegetables along with several appetizers. The one thing that the host specifically wanted was a series of Moroccan salads.

    Cabbage 1

    Mark, Mary (another homecook friend also asked by Mark to assist him) and I sat down to look at recipes that would be easy and complementary to his tagines featuring figs, dried apricots, preserved lemons and exotic Middle Eastern spices such as zatar and sumac. We started to look through several including a couple from Paula Wolfert.

    Cabbage     cabbage_0

     

    Since, Mark was already making several tagines from Paula and another cookbook, I scanned “Morocco” by Jeff Koehler. One of the first that popped out was a Moroccan Cabbage Salad with Olive Oil, Lemon and Garlic. With a quick look at the recipe, I knew this was a keeper. It’s delicious with freshly ground Himalayan pink salt for finishing. (This is my adaptation of it.). I also knew that I wanted to make it. 

    What you need:

    One head of Cabbage

    2 Lemons

    5 Garlic cloves

    1/2 cup of oil

    Let’s make this puppy:

    1. Wash and slice the cabbage about a 1/4 inch thick into a large bowl for tossing. Don’t slice it too thin. (For color, you can add a little red cabbage.). 

    2. In a smaller bowl, press the garlic cloves and extract all the liquid. Throw the pulp into the bowl too. 

    3. Squeeze the juice out of lemons (removing all the seeds) into the same bowl. Add the olive oil and whisk. 

    4. Depending on when you serve this salad and how “cooked” you want the it to be, is when you should mix dress the salad. If you let the cabbage sit in the liquid too long, it will get less crunchy. So, I like to dress it about 20 minutes ahead of time, set aside and then serve with a finishing salt and parsley. 

    Awesome. Really. 

    Cabbage Bowl

  • Making Bread: Unfortunately, not the Green Kind…but Tasty.

    I love simplicity.”Keep it simple”, I say to myself constantly. (I try remembering that phrase in everything I do.) I’ve realized that when something becomes too complicated akin to putting together a piece of furniture from Ikea, I believe it’s either not meant to be or you need to stop, look at the process and leave it alone for a period of time. 

    I truly wish I knew what “keeping it simple” meant in my early twenties. My relationships were complicated and living in New York City felt just as complex. However, looking back I had no one to blame but myself and life always feels complicated in your youth.  

     Dan Lepard main pic pastry

    I was invited to a pot luck dinner party at a friend’s house in the West Village. I offered to bring something and my darling friend Penny said, “Bring an appetizer like a dip and chips!”. Of course, I interpreted this as why don’t you make something complicated like Parmesan Puff Pastry Straws. 

    Opening up the “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” more than 20 years ago, I started the process thinking it really couldn’t be that hard. On the third day of rolling out that iced dough, I was through. I wanted to throw it against the wall or in the trash. I saw the pieces of butter throughout the rolling…and no, I did not find the act of rolling it out for three days engaging. It was a difficult process, plus I had to shave in a “good quality” parmesan which added another process of folding. This was in the late 80’s, long before the internet and the magic of industrialized cooking. Now,you can buy Pepperidge Farm Puff Pastry, then, it was the Stone Age and DIY. 

    At the end of four days, it was tasty just not worth the hassle and I never tried making bread again. Pie crusts and Apple Brown Bettys were all I was going to muster. 

     

    Rolling out Puff Pastry

    Then, 25 years later, and now in Los Angeles, I’m perusing the world wide web and came across an article on Mark Bittman’s site, fleshing out the simplicity of “No Knead Bread”. I thought I would try my hand at it making dough again. It’s not puff pastry but hey, it’s a beginning. The recipe is essentially five ingredients and the stunning bread lasts about a week. What is more beautiful than that? Five items purchased at any grocery store! Once it gets a little stale, you can turn it into croutons or into homemade breadcrumbs with a food processor. 

    How to make it….(or you can look up “No Knead” Bread”). 🙂 

    3 cups of all purpose or bread flour

    1/4 teaspoon of yeast

    1/4 teaspoon of salt

    2 cups water. 

    1. Place the flour, yeast and salt in large bowl and stir together. 

    2. Pour in 1 3/4 cups of water and mix. The dough should be a sticky mess. Cover with plastic wrap and but in an area that will stay about 70 degrees. Let this rise for about 12 hours. It will be very bubbly on top. 

    3. Next Day: Flour surface and turn out the dough. Place the floured and sticky mess into a clean, cotton dishtowel and let rise another 2 hours. 

    4. Here’s the real trick. It needs to go into a very hot oven at about 450 degrees. Place the dough into a dutch oven that’s been heated (do this while pre-heating the oven) and bake covered for about 20 minutes. Remove the lid and bake for another 20 to get the crust brown and crackling. You should get a beautiful artisan loaf. 

    IMG_20140823_150336 (2)

     

    Couple of tips: Once you remove the bread from the oven. Let it rest for about 15 minutes. Once you cut into, store in a paper bag, cut side down. It helps to keep it from get to hard. And…never cut more than you are going to use. 

    I have made about 6 of these loaves now. I will never go back to buying bread again. 🙂 

  • An Embarrassing Confessional: Whipped Cream

     During the seventies, which is when I was growing up, it was difficult to be single mother in the workforce. Alas, I didn’t grow up eating a lot of home-cooked meals such as Alice prepared for the Brady family. It was usually stuff opened from a can and heated such as Campbell’s beans with boiled Oscar Mayer ballpark franks cut up. That was it and mostly likely, I heated it up on the stove and served it to my mother since she just got home from work. Nothing bad about it, it was just how life was. 

    Occasionally, around the holidays, she would make turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes. Nothing too complicated and maybe a store bought frozen dessert to be garnished by Cool Whip, that sweet, seemingly innocuous topping that came in a tub. (It wouldn’t last too long. Once my mother was asleep, I was standing in the kitchen, refrigerator door wide-open, scooping spoonfuls into my mouth.). 

    Cool whip photo

    Once I moved to New York City to go to school, I started to waiting tables. The first restaurant job I had, as a waiter, was at a Cajun restaurant in Tribeca. It was part of our opening side-work was to daily prepare the whipped cream for the nightly desserts. If the kitchen staff wasn’t busy, they would make it for us, if asked kindly. If they were swamped by preparations of the specials or didn’t want to help us that night, we had to do amongst ourselves. Using a freezing cold metal bowl, two quarts of heavy cream, a couple of teaspoons of powered sugar, vanilla and a hint of bourbon. We would then pass it around among the three or four wait people. We would whisk it for about 5 minutes each, beating it in a frenzy. Our arms would ache after we were finished but we all scooped a dollop of the stuff into our mouths, to perfect the taste, adding a little more sugar or cream to get it right. I learned how to make proper whipped cream. The real stuff is made of heavy cream (from a dairy cow), sugar (from a stalk), and vanilla (from a bean)

    Whipped Cream 2

    Its interesting to know that “whipped cream” isn’t something from 1952 with “Leave it to Beaver” and Jello fruit salad. It has a real history and originated in France (natch!) in the 16th Century to decorate pastries and cakes. It’s original name was “Chantilly creme” which if you read enough bodice-rippers (romance novels), it’s always in some sex scene. 

    My confession is that I never knew until I was 19 that whipped cream actually was real cream….I always thought it came out of that white plastic tub or a canister. 

    How to make Whipped Cream:

    1. Use a metal bowl which is preferable (ceramic is okay too) and get it wet. Don’t dry it and put it into the freezer. We want the bowl freezing with ice crystals. I have also seen sous or pastry chefs double-bowl it using ice in the bottom bowl and then placing a smaller bowl on top, then pouring the cream into the smaller vessel. (Restaurant tips.)

    2. Use cream that has also been chilled, either directly from the fridge or you can also put it in the freezer for about a minute. (Another restaurant tip.)The colder it is, the easier and faster it’ll be to whip. Pour the cream into the cold bowl. 

    3. Using an electric hand-held mixer, starting whipping the cream. You are trying to get air into the liquid which will make it fluff up. (You could use a whisk but that’s ridiculously hard and tiring…why do that to yourself?)

    4; Stop whisking when you see peaks forming. Add about a tablespoon of confectioners’ sugar per pint of heavy cream. At this point, you can add a dash or two of vanilla extract and/or a liquor like bourbon, Cointreau, Midori (for color and flavor), Campari…if you are feeling festive and gay. Add more sugar to make it sweeter, less if you just want to taste just the cream which is also just as good. Keep whisking until the cream makes stiff peaks but be cautious, if you whisk to long it will the liquid  to butter.(In elementary school for a science class, we poured cream into a empty milk jug. With the thirty or so students passing and shaking the bottle, it turned to butter. That was fun!)

    20140816_195845 (2)

    I learned a lot about cooking working in restaurants. It was illuminating to make whipped cream.  I don’t think I ever told anyone that….but now I have….I feel relieved. 

    HA! 

  • Miami’s Cuban Food Recreation in Los Angeles

    Miami

    I don’t know a lot about Cuban food. I do know that much of originated from the Canary Islands and Spain, just like most of Latin America. With that said, Nick wanted to make something called “mojo” (prounounced “mo-ho” not “mo-jo” which is an Austin Powers act, just to be clear). It’s a very popular sauce and marinade from the Caribbean island and like most indigenous recipes has a lot of different variations based upon family recipes.However, the sauce has to include citrus, garlic and oregano.  

    Nick discovered it while living in Miami. It’s served up in restaurants, at parties and also bottled. It can also be found as “pollo de mojo” in Miami stores at the hot bar along with rice and beans, plantains and other dishes native to Cuba. 

    Mojo Bottle

    We tried making a couple of different recipes but it was never “cuminy” (is that a word?) for Nick. It lacked that deep earthiness and warmth that he kept wanting and would explain to me. Finally, Nick added several heaping tablespoons of the dried cumin to get that intense flavor which was required. Having never had “mojo”, I couldn’t help. Eventually, it wasn’t just the addition of the extra cumin but also the fresh oregano which made it taste just right. 

    Mojo Chicken

    How to Make “Mojo”:

    Two to three bulbs of garlic (chopped)

    1/2 cup of fresh lime juice

    1/2 cup of orange juice 

    1/2 cup of olive oil

    2 tablespoons of fresh oregano (minced)

    3 tablespoons of cumin

    1 small onion (chopped)

    1. Put everything in a bowl and mix together. To use as a sauce, reserve about a cup.

    Mojo Chicken

    Use 3 pounds of meat (chicken, pork or beef) and place the sauce into a resealable plastic bag. Marinate overnight for at least 24 hours.  We found this to be key to the flavoring as well. 

    You can roast at 400 degrees for an hour or grill. 

    A delicious, easy way to bring a bit of Cuba to your table. 

  • The Humble “Crumble” or Just a “Crisp”

    ladies baking

    I have written many times that my mother wasn’t really a cook. She was a working, single mother and it wasn’t really in her repertoire to cook. Occasionally, she would make a meatloaf or the requisite holiday dinner but normally it was a sandwich, doughnuts, Kraft Mac & Cheese, possibly a can of Campbell’s Pork and Beans (very Sandra Lee). 

    It wasn’t until I moved to New York City that my taste buds began to experience real food and cooking. One of my teachers in my gastronomic learning was my roommate, Teresa. Born in Massachusetts, outside of Boston, from a family of 9, she quickly became someone I thought of as a family member; plus, she loved to cook. She made simple American dishes like “baking soda biscuits”, roasted chicken and made delicious “Apple Brown Betty” which is what she called it. Really it was just a “crumble” also known as a “crisp”. 

    Brought over by English settlers, a crumble or crisp, is baked fruit topped with a crust of sugar, butter and flour. And one of the most amazing things in the American cooking world. It’s a simple concoction that conjures up Norman Rockwell scenes: kids frolicking in freshwater lakes, post an afternoon of strawberry picking or climbing apple trees, yanking down bushels of apples. (None of which I experienced growing up in Baltimore. Besides, I had never seen a berry plant much less an apple tree in the urban Seventies landscape.) 

    Kids in a lake 1950

    It was Teresa’s Irish family cooking which opened me to this bit of Americana. I can still smell the baking aromatics of cinnamon and nutmeg with the sweetness of the apples. She would pull it from the oven still bubbling hot and top it with some cheap ice cream bought at one of the local bodegas.  

    20140725_204532 (3)

    It sort of came back to me when I was moving. I was triggered to make a crisp for me and Nick. It’s funny how doing something can make you want to do something else. A move is stressful and I wanted to eat something nostalgic, when I thought life was simpler like living in New York City and being a club kid. (LOL) 

    You will need: 

    • 2 pounds of hulled and sliced fresh strawberries
    • 2 or 3 cups of fresh blueberries
    • 3 tbs. of cornstarch
    • 1 cup of brown sugar
    • ¾ cups flour
    • ¾ cups quick-cooking oatmeal
    • 1 tsp cinnamon
    • 1/2 tsp nutmeg (optional)
    • ½ cups Butter

    To Make: 

    Preheat oven to 350 F. Put the berries into a large bowl. Toss berries with cornstarch. Butter a 10″ glass pie plate or loaf pan and place the berries inside. 

    In a medium sized bowl, mix together the brown sugar, flour, rolled oats and cinnamon. Cut butter into the dry mix until resembling “crumbles”. Place over top of the berries.

    Bake for 45-55 minutes with a rimmed baking sheet just in case it bubbles over.(Hate having to clean an oven!) 

    Serve warm with your choice of ice cream…vanilla is probably my choice because it’s tasty and doesn’t conflict with the berries. You can top with some homemade whip cream. (Add a touch of bourbon to the cream….whoo- hoo!)Â