i8tonite

Year: 2024

6 Yummy Gluten-Free Bakeries in Indianapolis
Various gluten-free pastries at the Amp Farmers Market by Lydia Bootz Armstong

Exploring Non-Vegan, Gluten Free Bakeries in Indianapolis

People make much of eating gluten-free, calling it a lifestyle choice or making those who adhere to the diet change as if it isn’t a necessity. If you feel better, no matter how deep the condition goes, eating wheat-free can feel like a relief from getting rid of what ails you. Everyone — hopefully — can eat almond, tapioca, rice, potato, corn, sorghum or buckwheat flour, but not everyone can eat wheat.

For us – my partner, who has celiac, and I — we adhere to a GF diet because there is no choice. Eating alternative flour is the only way to go. However, we still want and crave butter and sugar, whether brown or the bad-for-you white. As such, I’m always looking for baked sweets that deliver with richness and decadence. The great thing about cooking with other types of flour is they add another layer of taste and deliciousness to an otherwise standard chocolate chip cookie or apple fritter.

I took it upon myself to showcase gluten-free bakeries in Indianapolis and those that create good old pastries made with alternative flour and lots of butter and sugar. I selected these specific bakers because they have a storefront, except for one.

These Indianapolis-based gluten-free bakeries prove that living without gluten doesn’t mean sacrificing anything. In truth, those who don’t know the difference could never tell if it was from wheat or cassava, and that’s a good thing. From the inclusivity of No Label at The Table to the luxurious The Cake Bake Shop, these bakers prove that gluten-free allows everyone to eat cake.

Aspasia Bakery

Baked goods at Zionsville-based Aspacia Bakery

Located on the border of Zionsville in a newly developed strip mall resides Aspasia Bakery, which opened in 2022. It’s a treasure trove for those seeking gluten-free baked goods made with butter and sugar and those seeking dairy and nut-free goods. Named after an ancient female Greek philosopher, owners Eva and Jeff Tomlinson built a charming restaurant that features breakfast through light supper items. For freshly made dinner rolls, brownies, or a scone, alt flour Aspacia offers a full array of goods. Like the Green Mermaid, it also has a drive-through for coffee and lattes. Special orders and shipping are available, too.
- Address: 5645 N Post Rd, Indianapolis, IN 46216
- Phone: (317) 663-4538
- Website: Aspasia Bakery
No Label at The Table

Various pastries and goods at No Label at The Table, Carmel

Plopped in the Carmel Arts District, No Label at The Table marries a gluten-free mission with a staff of individuals on the autism spectrum. That’s right; this bakery, created by Shelly Henley, which announced its opening in 2017, was for her son Jacob, who is on the autism spectrum. It began as an opportunity for him to become a chef and have a purpose. Still, it’s all about the delicious goods made in this no-frills space. Customers will find roasted garlic boules, doughnuts, cornbread sausage stuffing, hash brown casseroles and desserts, such as take-and-bake pies, cookies and cupcakes. Be aware that it’s dairy-free, too—lots of sugar, but no butter.
- Address: 111 W Main St #145, Carmel, IN 46032
- Phone: (317) 344-0452
- Website: No Label at The Table
Native Bread

Native Bread in Castleton

Since 2016, Native Bread has specialized in small-batch baking, creating loaves and pastries with impeccable texture and taste. From classic sourdough to focaccia and olive – and, importantly, burger buns (Do you know the difficulty in finding great GF buns?) – each product loaf is crafted using carefully selected ingredients. Made in the carry out on kitchen, the aroma of freshly baked bread hits individuals divinely.
- Address: 9546 Allisonville Road, Suite 106
- Phone: (317) 537 – 2707
- Website: Native Bread
1823 Bakehouse

Bite-Sized Hoosier Sugar Pie at 1823 Bakehouse

Head south to Franklin for 1823 Bakehouse, where everything on the menu is 100% gluten-free. Known for seasonal goods, the bakery makes everything from scratch using butter and sugar unless noted otherwise. Mornings can begin with their buttery biscuit egg sandwich or banana bread. We were finally able to eat a Hoosier sugar cream bite. Instead of a pie, it’s about a two-chomp sweet experience. They even have biscuits and gravy, chicken pot pie and a French Toast bake pan to-go. While they serve coffee, 1823 Bakehouse has a large selection of loose-leaf teas.
- Address: 9 W Washington St, Franklin, IN 46131
- Phone: (317) 739-6024
- Website: 1823 Bakehouse
The Cake Bake Shop

Gluten Free Chocolate Popcorn Cake at The Cake Bake Shop in Broad Ripple

Gwendolyn Rodgers’s The Cake Bake Shop is a Disney-fied bakery. Pink frills and swans, latticework and curlicues create a childlike atmosphere. While not exclusively gluten-free, the bakery offers plenty of options for those avoiding gluten. When we first moved to the area, I ordered a carrot cake for Nick’s birthday. It was an expensive endeavor, but the confection was undoubtedly one of the most beautiful presentations we’ve ever had—and delicious creamed butter and sugar.

Their gluten-free chocolate cake is decadent, while their jewel-toned French macarons and brownies are perfect for any occasion.
- Address: 6515 Carrollton Ave, Indianapolis, IN 46220
- Phone: (317) 257-2253
- Website: The Cake Bake Shop
Gluten-Free Creations

Gluten-Free Creations Pecan Tartlets

Lydia Bootz Armstrong of Gluten Free Creations has made my birthday cakes for the last four years. Even though she doesn’t have a shop, she makes everything with butter and sugar unless noted. In LA, where we are from, there are only a few vegan and gluten-free bakeries. It was either or. That may have changed five years later, but we wanted, in our new residence, cookies that would have made our grandmas proud. We wanted our treats to be flavorful and fat but made with alternative flour. Lydia, a home baker, does that with aplomb. Cinnamon rolls topped with sweet icing, freshly baked croissants and an array of cupcakes are just the beginning. Whether you’re ordering a custom cake for a special occasion or grabbing a treat to-go, Gluten Free Creations combines comfort and quality in every item they offer.
- Phone: (317) 270-4175
- Website: Gluten Free Creations
December 1, 2024
Top Six Restaurant Dishes from Indianapolis to Fort Wayne

Four lovely baked Brazilian cheese rolls at Fernando’s

How Hoosier chefs made the potato, chicken liver, octopus, beef, pimento cheese and gluten-free bread the talk of my table

Nick and I have savored many of the diverse flavors of Indianapolis restaurants since our move to the city five years ago. I’ve had the opportunity to explore Indiana’s culinary landscape extensively, covering destinations for Culinary Crossroads for a year and a half. From the southernmost Evansville to Elkhart, in the north, a 10-minute drive to the Michigan border and other places, I’ve sampled a range of dishes, becoming well-versed in “Hoosier” food. Living here has expanded my tastebuds and evolved my understanding of the Midwest’s culture and people.

Exploring Indiana’s Diverse Culinary Landscape

I recently attended a conference where the speaker said, “Hoosiers either leave and never come back, or they never leave, traveling only 20 minutes outside their neighborhood.” It’s an exaggeration, clearly, but it’s not far from the truth. I’ve met many natives who may have been to Paris but not to the neighboring region. (Carmel to Fishers doesn’t count.) I can’t tell you how many times I’ve asked if native Hoosiers have been to Terre Haute, which recently elected its first Democratic mayor, Brandon Sukbhan, in a dozen years. The answer is “not since grade school” or “never.”

They should. It’s a diverse hamlet and indicates the changing demographics of Indiana. Sakbun, a former Army captain with model looks, a mega-watt smile, and Elvis Presley hair, is the son of a Cambodian father and a Jamaican mother; we ate at an Indian buffet near city hall, talking about his then-wife and soon-to-be first child.

The town, home to Clabber Girl Baking Powder, sold at Traders Joe’s throughout the land, is a swim to Illinois, just across the Wabash River. To get there from Indianapolis, though, a drive past small historic towns like Greencastle and Brazil, flush with red barns and still-working siloes, shows today’s farming. Tractors and bales dot the landscape.

Indiana’s Changing Food Scene: The Influence of New Demographics

I’m bringing this up because in a small town like Terre Haute, with a population of just under 60,0000 – my former Los Angeles block had more people – it’s important to note that the 21st-century demographics are changing how the middle of the country eats. It’s a story that doesn’t get told as the media chase stories about the modifying electorate. All we need to do is find out what people eat and where. Think about it: A mayor born of two immigrants leads a predominantly Caucasian city in the middle of the Midwest while eating Punjabi food.

How did I select my favorite? It was memorable—nothing more, nothing less. Nick and I talk about it or think about returning. After dining at Michelin-starred and James Beard Foundation-nominated experiences, or those I discovered across six continents and nearly 250 cities, I believe I am good at eating.

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Fried Chicken Toast, Rune Restaurant, Fort Wayne

Fried Chicken Toast, Rune Restaurant

James Bear-nominated Chef Sean Richardson (Great Lakes Region) opened Rune Restaurant in Fort Wayne in March 2024. It’s a garden-to-table experience with twists and turns on different foods. Richardson makes an appetizer, fried chicken toast, and a large helping of house-made chicken pate smeared over Pullman bread. He gently fries the bread – as you would the Cantonese shrimp toast – and then flips it with a flour coating over the spreadable liver. Once cooked and warmed through, a slice of heirloom tomato, a drizzled white aioli and crunchy leftover bits. Mine featured a bit of nori, herbs and peanuts, and he was recreating the traditional dim sum in a Midwest way, using a loaf native to the region and lots of livers. While served on a plate, he repurposed an old menu that couldn’t be used again to keep the appetizer from careening off the plate instead of using a napkin. Just a touch of “greening.”

2725 Broadway, Fort Wayne, IN 46807, (260) 278-0674

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Rösti, Borage, Indianapolis

Josh Kline’s rösti covered by an egg, bacon and sumac cream sauce

During an interview with Chef Josh Kline, owner of Borage, and his wife, Zoe Taylor, he said, “I love potatoes.” I do, too! However, he loves them so much that he came up with a new version I’ve never had. The everyday eater might think of them as hash browns. Still, rösti, a traditional Swiss dish, is anything but browned and grated fried spuds. Kline’s version makes the tuber a confit – soaked in oil for 24 hours before baking it. It may sound oily, but the resulting dish melts in your mouth with a crackling. Typically made for breakfast, his dish is an upscale version and, frankly, a meal unto itself. At brunch, he will top it with various proteins, from fish to an egg or two.

1609 N Lynhurst Dr, Indianapolis, IN 46224, (317) 734-3958, borageeats.com

Pão De Queji, Fernando’s Mexican & Brazilian Restaurant, Indianapolis

Four lovely baked Brazilian cheese rolls at Fernando’s

A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away…meaning Los Angeles on La Cienega Blvd, I had dinner at a Brazilian chain restaurant more than two decades ago. I ate tough cubes of beef, which, moments before being on my plate, had been flaming on a skewer passed around by an oddly dressed man, and the pão de queji set before me was a baseball, dense and leaden. That memory fired up when Nick and I dined at the year-old Fernando’s in Broad Ripple. Unlike then, we ate alfresco, removed from the street on the separate patio and dined on a mix of Mexican and Brazilian cuisines. Notably, they serve the tapioca-based pao de quiet, slightly chewy and savory pillow puff of chewy with nutty flavors of aged hard Italian cheese. I could eat these daily for the rest of my life, but only if I eat them here.

834 East 64th Street, Indianapolis, IN (317) 377-4779,

https://fernandosindy.com

Octopus Terrine, Commission Row, Indianapolis

Commission Row’s Octopus Terrine with micro herbs and jalapenos.

Nick and I attended a press dinner for Commission Row, the breathtaking restaurant opened by Cunningham Restaurant Group and designed by Ration Architects. It sits on the eastern edge of Bicentennial Unity Plaza, on the Delaware Street side, with views of the public basketball court or ice rick, depending on the time of year. By the third dining experience, the impeccable server recommended the octopus terrine. A thinly sliced rectangle with rings of several cephalopods compacted is set before me. It’s a visually stunning dish of texture, spice and brine, with the pickled jalapenos giving a welcome dash of heat. Sublime eating.

110 S. Delaware Street, Indianapolis, IN, (317) 550 2500, https://www.commissionrow.com

Chicken Empanadas, La Mixteca, Frankfurt

Chicken Empanadas at Frankfort’s La Mixteca

Tacos are always the first thing people think of when they eat South of the Border food. That’s what I planned on eating when I walked into this Latina-owned restaurant in Frankfort, which, according to the 2020 U.S. Census, has a population of more than 16,000 and is one of Indiana’s farming communities tucked between cornfields and soybeans. After seeing a plate of empanadas pass by, I couldn’t resist the corn masa pockets stuffed with juicy braised chicken. My tastebuds reveled in the smokey achiote, garlic and onions permeating the filling. The tender golden crescent moon crust held a light sweetness and sturdiness to hold the meat without being tough or overly chewy. Three large hand-stuffed yeasty envelopes of poultry were more than sufficient, although I could have made it a meal with rice and beans that would have filled me into the next day.

408 N. Columbia Street, Franklin, (765) 601-4060, Facebook

Brisket, Smokin’ Barrel, Indianapolis

Brisket: Photo courtesy of Smokin’ Barrel.

I wrote a story about Indiana barbeque that was never published. In it, I argued that Indiana makes one of the great regional barbecues. Still, it never received the attention that others, partially because of the racism during the 1920s in the state—another story for another time. However, Mike and CJ McFarland smoke their meats in three different smokers outside a legion hall. Briskets, pulled pork, chicken are cured with locally sourced woods and seasoning, without sugar–brown or molasses in the open air, instead of indoors. Eaters get a wonderfully fruity yet succulent piece of meat from pitmaster McFarland’s patience over the embers. McFarland’s roots and cooking hailed from Owensboro considered the birthplace of American barbecue or, at least, pit-cooked mutton. Still, with beef and pork, he crafts his smoked meats, which are all Hoosier. They have two locations, but I visited them on South German Road.

2316 South German Church Road, Indy, (317) 340 4502, https://www.smokin-barrel-bbq.com

October 28, 2024
I8tonite: Bold Living in International Indianapolis, The Middle of Everything.
Indiana and South Korea’s Newest Relationship Grows Midwest Dining and Manfacturing.

South Korean and Indiana become an international force of dining and EV battery

Nick and I celebrated five years of living in Indianapolis. It was a big cross-country drive, but we were old hats at it, having relocated from West Hollywood to Phoenix, then Orange County and finally Palm Springs before motoring eastward. Each relocation was for Nick’s work. Since living here, we packed again from our first house in the historic Kennedy King neighborhood into our current “forever” home within walking distance of Broad Ripple if we had sidewalks to get there. (We have the same zip code.)

Initially, the city reminded me of my elementary and high school years in Baltimore. Charm City offers mature skyscraping trees and massive, historic turn-of-the-century homes built by transportation moguls. Both areas were hubs of the Second Industrialization Revolution due to the proximity of waterways and the burgeoning railroad system. And it was walkable. I ran away from home once in my stocking, hiking seven miles from Roland Park to Fells Point.

The difference between the two, today, is that Indianapolis is larger by more than 300,000. It’s the 16th largest city in the country, wedged between Charlotte (15th) and San Francisco (17th). It’s also the third largest in the region behind Chicago (‘natch) and Columbus, OH. Baltimore’s population ranks thirtieth, sandwiched by Memphis (29) and Milwaukee (31).

Like my former town of Los Angeles, cars assisted in building Indy. According to the Indiana’s Greenfield Daily Reporter, there were 172 manufacturers of cars or car parts in Indiana, including Stutz and Studebaker in the 1900s. Today, all of them are gone and the state is home to three Asian motor companies, including Honda, Toyota, Subaru and arguably, U.K.-based Rolls Royce, which works on U.S. defense-related production.

According to Autos Drive America, Asian automotive production has outproduced U.S. automakers, driving much of the Midwest economy. These manufacturers employ 17,544 Hoosiers, produce 75 percent of total U.S. auto production, and contribute $19 billion to the state’s GSP. Indeed, manufacturing dances away with the show. Kokomo, an hour north of Indy — think driving the 101 from Hollywood to the 210 and getting off in Pasadena without traffic (I know it would never happen, but it does here) — announced in September 2023 a joint venture between The Netherlands-based Stellantis and South Korean Samsung SDI will build a new EV battery plant, creating 1400 new jobs. The city’s population in 2022 was 59,604 and will continue to grow.

After that information was released, another announcement was that six Korean restaurants will open in the area. Sokuri, serving Japanese and Korean food, opened in January and Sute, a fine-dining Korean barbecue eatery, plans to open in the coming weeks. Indy has 13 Southeast Asian places serving everything from hot pots to Asian-Latin fusion tacos. With the number of South Korean nationalists moving to Kokomo, the companies felt it would be wise to create a welcoming international atmosphere.

This Asian wave brings to mind the Christian Burmese who fled Myanmar, relocating for religious persecution from the Buddhist junta. Many fled seeking religious asylum, found it in Indiana: Greenwood, a community south of Indy, and Fort Wayne, the state’s second-largest city. The Hoosier State could be called Little Burma because it has the largest population of Burmese in the United States. If you ever dined on lahpet thoke (green tea leaf salad), a textural, umami delight, you will wonder how you ever ate an iceberg wedge with bottled Russian dressing.

One can argue that America’s heartland belongs to other countries. I see that differently; I know fewer people fly over our amber waves of grain as we become more about growing an economy that allows everyone to live where they please. We aren’t relegated to one coast or bi-coastal anymore. That’s so 20th century. Now, we are, as the tourism bureau for Illinois says, “The middle of everything.”

What do I think about it? I always ask, will the traditional foods of the Amish, Dutch and Germans who populated the state be mingled with kimchee and bulgogi? Think of a deep-fried Korean pork tenderloin slathered in a sauce of gochujang, a fermented red chili paste and maple syrup, served on gyeran-ppang, a bread crossed with a pancake and dinner roll or using Indiana pork to make jeyuk bokkeum, pork marinated in gochujang, with Hoosier grown potatoes such as Purple Chiefs or Yukon Golds.

I’ve always wanted to live in this country where the comingling of cultures is celebrated and brought together for growth and opportunity. Half a decade later, I’m seeing it come to fruition.

Korean-Inspired BBQ Meatloaf

Ingredients:

For the Meatloaf:
- 1 lb ground beef
- 1/2 lb ground pork
- 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
- 1/4 cup milk
- One egg, beaten
- Two cloves garlic, minced
- One tablespoon ginger, grated
- Two tablespoons gochujang (Korean red chili paste)
- Two tablespoons soy sauce (or tamari for gluten-free)
- One tablespoon of sesame oil
- 1/4 cup green onions, chopped
- 1/4 cup carrot, finely grated
- 1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
- One teaspoon of sesame seeds
- One tablespoon gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes) – optional, for extra heat
For the Glaze:
- 1/4 cup ketchup
- Two tablespoons gochujang
- One tablespoon brown sugar
- One teaspoon rice vinegar
Instructions:

Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease a loaf pan with butter of spay oil or line it with parchment paper. The latter assists in removing the loaf from the pan.

In a large bowl, mix the panko breadcrumbs and milk, allowing the breadcrumbs to absorb the milk. Add the ground beef, pork, egg, garlic, ginger, gochujang, soy sauce, sesame oil, green onions, grated carrot, chopped onion, sesame seeds, and gochugaru (if used). Mix until all ingredients are well integrated.

Transfer the mixture to loaf pan, pressing it down to form an even loaf. Or, do what I do, and fashion a free form loaf so much easier.

Mix the ketchup, gochujang, brown sugar, and rice vinegar in a small bowl. Spread half of the glaze over the meatloaf.

Bake the meatloaf in the oven for 45-50 minutes. Fifteen minutes before it’s done, remove the meatloaf and spread the remaining glaze on top. Return it to the oven to finish cooking.

When your remove the meatloaf from the oven, let it rest for about 10 minutes and then slice.. If you feel inspired by Korea, serve bap (rice) or the Pennsylvania Dutch, opt for buttered gluten-free egg noodles or mashed potatoes.

Go Eat.
September 6, 2024
Beautiful, Longer Days: Foraging for Wild Onions & Garlic
Imbloc, A Celtic Tradition: The Period Between Winter Solstice and Spring’s Beginning

Did you know that cheesy onion biscuits with a big smear of butter are associated with gratefulness and optimism? It’s one of several dishes historically found at meals that celebrate February 1st—Imbolc or Astronomical Spring—and February 2nd, which has morphed into the modern Groundhog Day. Humans have enjoyed particular dishes to ritually and emotionally welcome the lengthening day for millennia. People understood they depended on seasonal food access and that even hunting was at the mercy of weather and animal behavior.

The etymology of Imbolc refers to “in the belly” since domestic animals are pregnant in winter and produce milk for the babies born in the spring. It may still be quite cold or snowy, but tendrils of green are climbing up from the soil.

Some communities stored domesticated animals and harvests for winter, while others relied primarily on foraging and hunting. By winter’s end, food was getting scarce. Imbolc marks the incrementally extended daylight that awakens wild garlic and onions—some of the first fresh plants to appear. People build fires, sharing revelry and gratitude for making it through winter with feasts. Grains, cheeses, butter, milk, and optimistic spring greens make up these meals. Even now, we enshrine these foods as symbols of early spring.

We can invite this festive and grateful energy into this century and our lives. What a cheerful way to interrupt the sometimes oppressive cold and gray winter days. In the 21st century, people are not as tightly bound to seasonal rotations or natural light cycles due to their connection to the grid and the global food industry. We entrench ourselves in the hustle of deadlines, the economy, careers, staying informed, grocery shopping, laundry, rush hour, crime statistics, and paying bills.

But we are also sensuous mammals, our senses enmeshed with light, temperature, scents, and sound changes. All of these stimuli trigger responses in our bodies and behavior. Our modernity abstracts how we entangle with nature, and trivializing its influence shrinks our impulse to be playful, contented and inspired. Consider an Imbolc-inspired meal with your family to root yourself back into rhythms and cycles. Or reach out to others and have a potluck feast with a gathering of people. You can share the Onion and Cheese biscuits and an excellent rich butter. The ingredients are probably already in your home or easily picked up at a market.

Science and folklore agree that it is good for our health to give some time and attention to our environment and share it with other living beings.

One way I’ve started to appreciate the living beings I interact with every day is to learn their names. I’ve begun discovering what wild plants are edible around me growing wild. I experiment with gardening but am more intimidated by it than Early Spring foraging. Early spring is a low-effort window for beginners like myself because there’s only a little green coloring in the soil. It’s much easier to discern one plant from another.

If you’d like to be bold and find a plentiful, unassuming plant to forage and use immediately, find field garlic (allium vineale) and field onions (Allium Canadense). They grow almost anywhere. In the Northern Hemisphere, they sometimes appear on winter days with some warm sunshine. In early spring, they come forth and are often mistaken for fast-growing grass.

Step one: Find a field or a yard. It could be your yard, a shared bit of grassy area in your apartment complex, landscaping at your place, a public park, or an edge of woods. Field onions and garlic grow anywhere in soil and sunlight.

Do take a moment to consider the “isolation” of your spot. I prefer a place away from dog walkers or heavy industry. There are varying opinions about pesticides/herbicides. Still, I won’t harvest where little lawn treatment flags protrude from the ground. Many public parks and woodlands are sprayed with treatments, too. I prefer to forage inside a forest rather than from its edges, where they mainly concentrate the spraying. Sometimes, there is signage after an application.

When you’ve picked your first spot, quickly scan and notice clumps growing taller than the surrounding grass. Please take a little pinch of stalk and smell it. If you smell either garlic or onion- bingo! You’ve found them. The garlic scent is so distinctive, while the onion is more subtle. Because they look so similar, the aroma will be your reliable identifier. Before the Spring Equinox, you are unlikely to have flowering, but you can see differences in their leaves. Field Garlic is a darker green, with hollow leaves like little straws. Field Onions are not hollow.

You can gather leaves by pulling them or cutting them with scissors to harvest.

The leaves are saturated with flavor, but if you want the little bulbs for extra punch, dig down around the plant with a tool like a spade or even a giant spoon. The bulbs will come out caked in soil, and you may not get all of them entirely, but that’s okay. The remaining bulbs will grow again. They are tenacious, and a lot of people consider them weeds.

Bring something along to carry your treasure. It could be a basket or a washable bag. It will get dirty and soak up that Allium scent. Please give them a good soak in hot water at home, which will loosen the soil. Rinse them a few times, and that’s all there is to it. The next delight is deciding how you’ll use your treasure. Making the cheese and onion biscuits with these may make you feel optimistic and accomplished.

Another bonus to discovering the wild plants we intermingle with daily is that many people already know what these plants look and taste like. There are field guides, websites, YouTube videos, local classes, and flesh-and-blood people who love to share their interests with you.

Recipe for Cheesy Onion Biscuits
- 2 cups all-purpose flour or gluten-free. (We like Cup4Cup)
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
- 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 1/2 cup buttermilk
- 1/4 cup sour cream
- 1 tablespoon honey (optional, for a touch of sweetness)
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley (optional, for garnish)
Instructions:
1. Preheat your oven to 425°F (220°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or lightly grease it.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
3. Add the cold butter cubes to the dry ingredients. Use a pastry cutter or your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs.
4. Stir in the shredded cheddar cheese and chopped onion until evenly distributed.
5. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, and honey (if using).
6. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, and pour the buttermilk mixture into the well. Gently stir until the dough comes together. Be careful not to overmix.
7. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Pat it into a rectangle about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick.
8. Use a biscuit cutter or a sharp knife to cut the dough into biscuits. Place the biscuits on the prepared baking sheet, leaving a little space between each one.
9. If desired, brush the tops of the biscuits with a little extra buttermilk or melted butter for added flavor and color.
10. Bake in the preheated oven for 12-15 minutes, or until the biscuits are golden brown and cooked through.
11. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley, if using. Serve warm and enjoy your cheesy onion biscuits!
March 10, 2024
Mean Streets of Hollywood to Sweet Noblesville, Indiana
Noblesville Main Street’s Executive Director, Kate Baker, Shares Her Love for the Midwest Town and Her Mom’s Chili Recipe

Kate Baker, Courtesy of Kate Baker

I met Indiana-born Kate Baker, Executive Director of Noblesville Main Street, at a catering company’s tasting launching into weddings and events. I’m from Los Angeles and Kate lived there for a decade, too. At different times – I’m more than a decade older – we both worked in entertainment media relations, sending out screeners and ensuring celebs hit their red-carpet marks at events for studios and productions. She worked on the Emmys around television, and I worked on Oscar campaigns. We trundled with the photogs at the Golden Globes’ step and repeat, where the broadcast and cinema stars drink together. We even share a few of the same media friends on social media. Of course, there are hundreds of events in Los Angeles daily, with more journalists covering sports, fashion, and entertainment than anywhere in the world. Yet, far from the Hollywood klieg lights and the narcissistic movie and television industries, we found friendship in Indianapolis.

While I gingerly tread into the writing world – still trying to find my footing after nearly four years of living in Indiana – Kate found a calling into a tourism leadership role in one of the most vibrant and charming communities in the state, Noblesville. There is a resemblance to Napa County’s St. Helena, a delicious walking district outside of San Francisco, known for superb dining and charming independent shops to this sweet burg, roughly 45 minutes north of Indianapolis. They both offer a daytime destination from cities of approximately the same size and have more sole proprietorships than chains. According to Best Places, Indy has a slightly larger population than the Bay Area: 880,104 vs. 865,933, respectively. One of my favorite eating experiences in the 19th state occurred at 9th Street Bistro, where Chef Samir Mohammad creates superb dishes inspired by travels, he and his wife, Rachel Firestone, take annually.

A promotional post for Salsa on The Square in Noblesville Indiana. Courtesy Noblesville Main Street.

In 2019, Kate began overseeing multifaceted roles such as development, marketing, and other destination executive functions. Beyond focusing on the town’s renewal, which has more than 70,000 individuals, she practices her first love, music, volunteering as the assistant music director at Noblesville First United Methodist Church.

“Noblesville is not just my hometown; it’s the crucible that shaped my aspirations,” Baker said when she took the role. “As a denizen of Old Town, I cherish the opportunity to actively shape the evolution of our downtown culture. Noblesville Main Street epitomizes the rich tapestry of our city’s history, vibrancy, and irreplaceable charm. I eagerly anticipate the myriad ways in which we can bolster our community, ensuring it remains an inclusive haven for all.”

Buy Noblesville merchandise here: T-shirts, drinkware and even a snow globe!

FOOD QUESTIONS

What is your favorite food to cook at home? My mom’s chili recipe, which I make a little spicier. It is by far my favorite comfort food!

What do you always have in your fridge at home? Cheese, eggs, and milk. I realize now I’m addicted to dairy! (But don’t tell anyone about the container of frosting kept hidden in the side of the door for those moments you just need a taste of sweet. Ha ha ha!)

What marked characteristic do you love in a person you share a meal with? When I share a meal with someone, I love seeing their joy in the foods they love. In Noblesville, we have several amazing places that offer unmatched culinary experiences. My favorite thing to do is take someone to one of these places for the first time. I love to see them take their first bite and have that eyes-closed moment as they experience the taste sensation created by fresh ingredients, culinary expertise, and, above all, love.

What marked characteristic do you find unappealing in a person with whom you share a meal? I don’t enjoy sharing space with someone unwilling to try new things or dine without gratitude.

Beer, wine, or cocktail? Wine, wine, wine, wine!

Who is your favorite cookbook author? One of my best friends from college is from Puerto Rico. I have spent quite a bit of time there and was given a cookbook called “Puerto Rico True Flavors” by Wilo Benet. “This book has helped me create some really beautiful meals and has been a favorite of mine for more than 2 decades!

What is your favorite kitchen or bar tool? I cannot live without my espresso maker. Does this count?

Favorite types of cuisine to cook? Italian – and because basic pasta dishes make me feel empowered as its one of the only things I confidently make! My skills in the kitchen could be improved.

Beef, chicken, pork, seafood or tofu? Beef, but this girl loves surf and turf!

Favorite vegetable? A tie between broccoli, brussels sprouts, and butternut squash.

What chef or culinary person do you most admire? Jessica Walls at Debbie’s Daughters. Her thoughtfulness into her baked goods, her celebration of family, and the importance she places on consistency and quality for every morsel of every cookie, cake, or loaf of bread make her and her sisters’ food so special. You can taste the love in every single bite.

Inside Debbie’s Daughters, Noblesville Indiana. Courtesy, Debbie’s Dabughters

What food do you like the most? My favorite meal has a filet mignon, baked potato, and steamed broccoli.

What food do you dislike the most? Mushrooms. I haven’t entirely made my peace with fungus, but there are exceptions to this: hibachi style is one of those for me.

What is your favorite non-eating thing to do? Sing. I can’t imagine my life without music.

Whom do you most admire in food? My mom. There is nothing like homecooked meals by a parent/guardian who loves you.

Where is your favorite place to eat/drink in the Midwest? Absolutely depends on my mood, but the top places would be 9th Street Bistro, Debbie’s Daughters, Uptown Cafe, and The Nesst of Noblesville, with great memories at HollyHock Hill.

Where is your favorite place to eat and drink outside the Midwest? This is a three-way tie, and all are in my old stomping grounds of Los Angeles: Palmeri Ristorante (Brentwood), Taverna Tony’s (Malibu), or Sugarfish (California).

What is your favorite restaurant? Impossible to pick just one! Currently, I can’t seem to stop craving 9th Street Bistro in Noblesville.

Moroccan Chicken, Courtesy of 9th Street Bistro

Who is/are the person/s with whom you would share your last meal? Last meal?! I can’t even fathom the last meal, let alone who I would invite! First thought would be my parents, but let’s be real – if it was my last meal, this would be a party including everyone I’ve ever loved.

A Midwest Chili Recipe from Mary Baker, Kate’s Mom

(Original recipe from my mom. I’ve made improvisations through the years in the heat and how I cook the meat, but this was a mother instructing her daughter who was newly on her own!)

What to buy at the store:
- 2 1/2 pounds ground chuck
- 1 large can “Brooks” Mild Chili Beans
- 1 can dark red kidney beans
- 1 can of pinto beans
- 1 can Great Northern Beans
- 2 large cans of Hunts Diced Tomatoes
- 1 small can of diced tomatoes with green chilies
- 2 envelopes of Durkee Original Chili Seasoning (Kate usually does 1 mild and 1 hot pack)
- 1 small box of “elbow” macaroni
- 1 small bottle of Tabasco sauce
- 1 medium “sweet” onion ~ chopped
- 1 bag of shredded cheese (your choice: I usually get Monterey Jack…or a blend)
- 1 bottle of tomato juice
- 1 container of sour cream
- Crackers of your choice: Oyster. Regular saltines or whatever.
What to have on hand:
- A big pot to pour everything into and hold your chili
- Strainer
- Can or another saucepan to put strainer onto to catch drippings from the ground chuck. Don’t drain it into your sink. Your drainpipe will eventually get clogged and be just a mess to clean out.
- Saucepan to cook macaroni in.
- Cutting board
Directions:

1. Use your largest pot and pour all cans of beans and diced tomatoes into it. Put on a burner on very low heat.

2. Put half of the beef into a microwave-safe bowl and break it apart with a fork. Microwave on high for about 3 minutes. Take it out and continue to break it up with a fork. Mike for another 2 minutes. Take it out and do the fork thing again till it’s the consistency you like. If the meat is still pink, cook it in one-minute intervals until it is fully cooked. When cooked through, dump it into the strainer and drain well. Put back in the bowl, and put one envelope of the seasoning mix into the ground chuck and mix in with fork. Pour beef into the tomato/bean mixture in the pot. Repeat with the rest of the meat.

3. Stir beef, tomatoes, and beans together and keep on low heat.

4. Fill a medium-sized saucepan about 3/4 full with hot water. Bring to a rolling boil on top of the stove. When boiling, add about 1 1/2 cups of macaroni. Turn the heat down, but continue to boil, stirring with a fork fairly often. After about 5 minutes, periodically take out one piece of macaroni….let it cool a bit….and taste it. When it is done to your liking, drain the pasta in the strainer. This time directly into the sink.

5. Pour drained pasta into the pot. Stir. Cover.

6. Chop onion and put it into a small Tupperware-type container with the lid snapped on. Put into fridge.

7. Cook chili on low heat, stirring every few minutes for about a half hour. Reduce heat to “simmer” and keep covered for as long as you want without overcooking it.

8. If the chili is too thick for your liking, add some tomato juice….a little at a time….until it is the thickness you want.

9. Serve with onions, cheese, sour cream and crackers.

10. Enjoy!!

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February 18, 2024
My Indy Neighbor Makes the Best Jerk Chicken
Or, How I Learned About Chinese Jamaican Food

It’s easy to meet your neighbors when you have dogs. Owners seem to be on the same schedule. It’s either before work or after, sometimes it’s in the afternoon when you work from home. Such as it is with Scott, whom I met as he rolled by on his skateboard with Indigo in tow. However, with her sylph-like form harnessed to her owner, it seemed that Indy pulled Scott like a husky. Indy is sweet to watch; she lopes with determination and zest, eager to exercise.

In comparison, I trundled by with George. Our chocolate lab loves every dog, and every dog loves him. Indy, a pit and whippet mix, can be rough and needs galloping runs with her skater Dad. The two canines have become friends—a quick sniff and off to their worlds. George is finding good goose poop to eat – a never-ending process – and Indy is potentially racing the Iditarod.

Growing up as a half-Filipino and half-Caucasian-American boy, I feel acutely drawn to people like me. We are unique. I thought Scott might be bi-racial, too. As it turns out it, he identifies as Chinese Jamaican, a small group of the country’s immigrants that settled in the Caribbean. The son of an American Irish-Scottish father and a Chinese mother, he was born in the Caribbean nation of Jamaica. Raised in Indiana, he, a digital artist, and his wife, Berlin, a teacher are now empty nesters.

Scott and Berlin Hughes Photo, Scott Hughes

Being the food lover I am, I immediately searched the internet for recipes from his Caribbean background. His cooking heritage includes many dishes such as stir-fried goat, jerk chicken chow mein, and char sui dahlpouri. The last dish, literally is a melting pot of cultures, with tastes from Southeast Asia, China, and the continent of Africa.

According to the National Library of Jamaica website, the Chinese, mostly Hakka, arrived as indentured servants to work the sugar plantations from 1854 until 1886. Three well-documented ships sailed with almost thousand immigrants during this period. Then, a second and third migration occurred from the early 20th century until the 1970s, mostly of individuals and entrepreneuers looking for better lives. The online publication Gal-Dem, dedicated to telling marginalized people’s stories, says that 50,000 Chinese Jamaicans live on the island today. During an ethnic revolt during the 1970s, several thousand Chinese Jamaicans moved to Canada and parts of the U.S. for safety.

When I learned that Scott was Chinese Jamaican, I took it upon myself to learn more. It’s a fascinating immigration story about how Asians and Pacific Islanders came to create a diverse culture in Caribbean history. Through this, I discovered that the first Filipino settlement occurred in a Louisana in 1763 with a group of enslaved people and other people of color. Even earlier, Filipinos sailors aboard a Spanish ship landed in Morro Bay, California in 1587, reports PBS So Cal Focus, 33 years before the pilgrims land at Plymouth Rock. With this said, discovery of North America most likely were not European but from the Asian diaspora.

In his words: Scott Hughes

I was born in Kingston, Jamaica in 1972. My father was American Scotch/Irish, and my mother was Chinese, whose parents came to China in the early 20th century. My mother’s people are called Hakka Chinese. They have a dialect but no longer speak it. They are native to Southern China but originally migrated to the region from the central part of China in ancient times. They are considered Han Chinese (a particular group which than moved to Southern China, before immigrating to Jamaica) and live in the traditional Hakka round houses.

Home grown scotch bonnets: Photo by Scott Hughes

My mother came to America through Catholic school connections and attended Marian College in the sixties when she met my father. They moved to Jamaica and lived with my mother’s family before migrating back to the U.S. in the seventies.

My uncle owned a small Jamaican eatery called Patties of Jamaica at the 52nd and Allisonville Road intersection. It has been there for over 40 years, now run by my cousin.

What is your favorite food to cook at home?

Jamaican food.

What do you always have in your fridge at home?

Scotch bonnet peppers that I grow.

What marked characteristic do you love in a person you share a meal with?

Trying new food.

What marked characteristic do you find unappealing in a person with whom you share a meal?

Hogging the best shrimp.

Beer, wine, or cocktail?

No

Who is your favorite cookbook author?

Julia Child.

What is your favorite kitchen or bar tool?

Meat tenderizer mallet.

Favorite types of cuisine to cook?

Chinese, Thai, and Caribbean.

Beef, chicken, pork, seafood or tofu?

I love chicken, beef and goat.

Favorite vegetable?

Green beans

What chef or culinary person do you most admire?

Bourdain

What food do you like the most?

Blueberries

What is your favorite non-eating thing to do?

skateboarding, water-coloring, digital design

Whom do you most admire in food?

Chef Ricardo

Where is your favorite place to eat/drink in the Midwest? Delicia

Where is your favorite place to eat and drink outside the Midwest?

New Orleans & Jamaica

What is your favorite restaurant?

Benyue Dim Sum House in Castleton.

Who is/are the person/s with whom you would share your last meal?

My wife.

Scott Hughes Recipe for Jerk Chicken
- One medium onion, coarsely chopped
- Three medium scallions chopped
- 3 Scotch bonnet chiles, chopped
- Two garlic cloves, chopped
- One tablespoon five-spice powder
- 1tsp ground cinnamon
- 1 tsp ground fennel seeds
- One tablespoon Jamaican allspice berries, coarsely ground
- One tablespoon of coarsely ground black pepper
- One teaspoon of fresh thyme
- One teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg
- One teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup soy sauce
- One tablespoon of olive oil
- ¼ cup dark brown sugar
- 2 (3 1/2 to 4-pound) chickens, quartered
- 1tsp Chinese MSG (that’s right)
- 1 Lime to wash the chicken pieces with (Jamaican practice but not needed)
Prep chicken pieces by poking them with a fork to allow marinade to seep into the flesh. Rub chicken pieces with fresh lime (optional).

Use a blender to make spices into a marinade, and place chicken into a 1-2 1-gallon size freezer bag(s) and marinate for a day. If you need to use two freezer bags, split the marinade into both.

Bake or grill at around 415 degrees for approximately 40 -50 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces.

If baking, use a slotted pan to release the chicken drippings below. However, roasting the meat in a glass baking dish allows the spices and juices to bathe. It all comes out delicious.

You can adjust to a lower heat but add extra time to accommodate.

Best served with Jamaican rice and peas and a mango coleslaw

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January 16, 2024