Tag: Kim Sunee

  • Black Tepary Bean Hummus: A Sonoran Desert Recipe

    Black Tepary Bean Hummus: A Sonoran Desert Recipe

    Nick and I will have been in Tucson for a little over two months by the time I publish this post. While I often mention what Iโ€™ve done and where Iโ€™ve been, and, of course, what I eat, I try to keep things that are really important to me private. Sometimes, I leave Nick out. Not because I donโ€™t want to share about him, but I believe I honor our life together by not sharing it with everyone. I also feel that way about my friendships. Sometimes, I post about them, but in this day and age of oversharing, I donโ€™t want to share everything.

    Citrus growing at Mission Gardens

    But, oddly, kismetโ€“happenstanceโ€“luck happened before Nick, and I arrived in the Sonoran Desert. Thus, I believe this warrants a blog post. 

    Unbeknownst to me, Kim, the former food editor for the now-defunct Cottage Living, which published from 2004 to 2008, and I worked together on a series of stories in Napa Valley. We became friendly as journalists and media relations people do. You spend hours โ€“ sometimes, days working beside journalists, helping keep clients on message, ensuring control over what your client may or may not say and in general, guiding both with helpful information. On one such venture, Kim stayed with me in San Francisco once, and another time, when I first got sober, she stayed with me in West Hollywood while she was on her memoir tour for Trail of Crumbs. Admittedly, I was a bit of a mess โ€“ my world imploded. I realized that those whom I thought cared about me โ€“ indeed, said they loved me โ€“ had thrown me to the wolves, in front of an oncoming train, under a bus and facing an avalanche. ย 

    Kim moved to Alaska with her then-new husband. When Kim said to me about moving to Anchorage, I replied, โ€œThey donโ€™t even grow basil there!โ€ (They do, but thatโ€™s not the point I was making. Luckily, she laughed.)ย ย I floundered about until I met Nick and continued to be a fish out of water until โ€“ truthfully, until we decided to move to Southern Arizona.

    We didnโ€™t stay in touch except maybe with our social media posts. In September, she posts something about moving to Tucson โ€“ and I reply, โ€œNo way! We are moving there too!โ€ As a couple, they have been together for 15 years, almost as long as Iโ€™ve been sober. Nick and I bought a home in a developing neighborhood about 7 miles south of the entrance to Saguaro National Park. Our commutes to the grocery store and shopping pass through undulating mountain ranges and saguaros โ€“ desert sentinels, really โ€“ standing as tall as a four-story building.ย 

    Weโ€™ve spent time together now โ€“ the four of us eating magnificent meals cooked by Kim overlooking the Tucson Valley basin from her new home with Neil. If the desert can bring a longtime friend into the fold, perhaps itโ€™s the Sonoran Desert telling us that this is home. 


    Tepary beans are native to the Sonoran Desert, which extends into Mexico from Arizona. Itโ€™s been cultivated by the indigenous peoples for more than 4,000 years and is drought-resistant, owing to its prevalence in the region’s foodways. When cooked, itโ€™s sweet, if not a little sugary, a bit nutty too and stays firm.  I bought these at Mission Gardens, a four-acre agricultural museum that showcases the heirloom crops grown in the Sonoran Desert for thousands of years. 

    Black Tepary Bean Hummus 

    This version keeps the ingredients minimal, so you will find a sugariness. It has a deeper, more complex flavor than chickpea hummus and a gorgeous dark color that photographs beautifully.

    Ingredients

    • 1 ยฝ cups dried tepary beans
    • 2 tablespoons tahini
    • 2 tablespoons olive oil
    • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
    • 1โ€“2 cloves garlic, minced
    • ยฝ teaspoon ground cumin
    • ยฝ teaspoon salt, more to taste
    • ยผ cup of  cold water (to thin)
    • A pinch of chiltepin or red pepper flakes
    • A drizzle of chile oil
    • A squeeze of lime instead of lemon

    Instructions

    1. To begin, soak the tepary beans for at least 24 hours. They take a very long time to cook. I have found that they need at least 10 hours on the stove at a gentle simmer. I also add salt, pepper, a garlic clove and a bay to the water. Keep testing a bean or two until soft. 
    2. In a food processor, combine the tepary beans, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, cumin and salt.
    3. Add ยผ cup of cold water at a time until the smooth texture to your liking. Tepary beans make hummus thicker, so continue adding a little water until the desired consistency is reached. Adjust seasoning as needed. 
    4. Add more salt, lemon or garlic as needed. If youโ€™re using chiltepin or chile oil, add it now.
    5. Spoon into a serving bowl, drizzle with more olive oil and finish with your optional Tucson flourish.

    LEFTOVERS

    LOCAL

    Cafรฉ Maggie, according to Tucson Foodie, a popular Fourth Avenue spot known for coffee, sandwiches, and a collegial atmosphere, has closed after an equipment failure and ongoing financial strain.

    REGIONAL

    KTAR News reported that Michelin Guides will now cover the Southwest. It will include Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada and Utah. 

    NATIONAL

    The James Beard Foundation announced new criteria for its 2026 Awards, placing greater emphasis on community impact, wage transparency, and equitable workplace culture. While culinary excellence remains central, nominees will now be required to show documented commitments to fair labor practices. 
    Bon Appรฉtit did a beautiful story on Tucson. I wish I had the chance to write it. Bummed.

  • i8tonite: Facebook, Newsletter and Kim Sunee’s Beet & Apple Salad

    i8tonite: Facebook, Newsletter and Kim Sunee’s Beet & Apple Salad

    cropped-cropped-red-plate-with-knife-and-fork-md-logo-temp.pngLast week was busy at i8tonite, my newly deemed on-line lifestyle publication about food. I set up a Facebook page and then started a bi-weekly newsletter focusing on what lies ahead. I was very hesitant to create the Facebook page. The creation made the website seem realer. And that my career in public relations is morphing into an online publication. After years of promoting people to create content, I’m now creating content promoting people and food. I’ve now thrown out the middle man.

    Photo by Mike Tungate
    Photo by Mike Tungate

    As I’m ensconced in mid-life, an age of more realizedย living — meaning how I want to live instead of just living — ย I’m now exploring the United States.ย  With our move to Phoenix, Nick and I will travel throughout the Southwest, home to ย breathtaking saguaros, the Sonoran desert, and red mountains. We are planning trips to Sedona, Tucson, Santa Fรฉ, and Tombstone. (I have always wanted to go to Tombstone, Arizona just to say I’ve been.) Laramie, Cheyenne, Aspen, Denver, the Grand Canyon and Flagstaff are also on the ticket.

    At some point, we will travel to Mukwonago, Wisconsin, where Nick was born and raised. It’s a small mid-Western town. You won’t find Kate Moss standing on the corner or a camera crew blocking the sidewalk. I don’t have to worry about the paparazzi or a traffic jam being created by yet another entertainment award show. It’s a significant destination for us because that’s where Nick’s family still resides. As a boy, with his siblings, Nick went ice fishing in the mid-western winters and swam in the lake during the summers. ย I’ve never been ice-fishing. The closest I got to ice- fishing was in 1989. It was a New York City wet winter where I “fished” for my Marlboros in the pocket of my Moschino jacket before a Stephen Sprouse fashion show. ย I don’t smoke anymore; the late Stephen Sprouse is now considered retro and I don’t know what happened to that Moschino jacket.

    With possibly most of my global escapades behind me, I now travel outside the States without ever leaving my kitchen, gratefully letting international flavors take me away. I decided to use Kim Sunee’s “Mouthful of Stars,”ย an exquisite cookbook hybrid with personal essays throughout. Published in 2014, it’s a beautiful publication containing mouth-watering images with Ms. Sunee’s sublime prose.ย  The former food editor for the defunct Cottage Living offers her anecdotes about travels to Mexico, Sweden, Paris and her New Orlรฉans home. As much as I would like to go to Sweden, it’s not going to happen before I get to Ecuador, Peru, Mexico or Paris again. I thought I would cook her Swedish Beet and Apple Saladโ€ฆ. just to do a little kitchen traveling before the beginning of my homeland discoveries. (In 2009, Kim also wrote one of my favorite food memoirs Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love and the Search for Home.)

    Beets

    The salad is tart and savory with some horseradish heat. I loved the combination withย the herbal dill, the crรจme fraiche richness, the red onion’s bite and sweetness of the beets and apples. Easy to make and very colorful for the holidays.

    Swedish Beet and Apple Salad (adapted from Mouthful of Stars, serves 2 – 3 people):

    You will need:

    • Two medium-sized beets, cooked (You can find cooked beets in the produce section if you don’t want to make your own.)
    • 1 Granny Smith Apple, coarsely grated.
    • One small red onion, thinly sliced with a mandolin.
    • Tablespoon of chopped and rinsed capers (or more to taste).
    • 1 to 2 tablespoons of fresh horseradish.
    • Tablespoon of chopped dill (or more to taste).
    • Several grinds of white pepper (Black pepper if you don’t have any is fine too).
    • 4 ounces of sour cream or crรจme fraiche. (Use the crรจme fraiche if you can find it. Most stores carry it in the fine cheese section. It makes a richer dressing.)
    • 2 to 3 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar.

    Let’s make this puppy:

    Chopped the cooked beets into ยผ sticks and place in a bowl. Put in the thinly-sliced onions and apple.

    In a small bowl and the remaining ingredients: crรจme, pepper, dill, capers, dill and horseradish. Stir. Add the apple cider to thin out the mixture. Stir until the desired consistency. (If you want a thinner dressing add a drop more vinegar.) Pour over the vegetables and apple, well-coating everything. Chill until ready to serve. Top with dill.

    Beet Apple Salad

    The End. Go Eat.