Category: Cooking

  • i8tonite: Facebook, Newsletter and Kim Sunee’s Beet & Apple Salad

    i8tonite: Facebook, Newsletter and Kim Sunee’s Beet & Apple Salad

    cropped-cropped-red-plate-with-knife-and-fork-md-logo-temp.pngLast week was busy at i8tonite, my newly deemed on-line lifestyle publication about food. I set up a Facebook page and then started a bi-weekly newsletter focusing on what lies ahead. I was very hesitant to create the Facebook page. The creation made the website seem realer. And that my career in public relations is morphing into an online publication. After years of promoting people to create content, I’m now creating content promoting people and food. I’ve now thrown out the middle man.

    Photo by Mike Tungate
    Photo by Mike Tungate

    As I’m ensconced in mid-life, an age of more realized living — meaning how I want to live instead of just living —  I’m now exploring the United States.  With our move to Phoenix, Nick and I will travel throughout the Southwest, home to  breathtaking saguaros, the Sonoran desert, and red mountains. We are planning trips to Sedona, Tucson, Santa Fé, and Tombstone. (I have always wanted to go to Tombstone, Arizona just to say I’ve been.) Laramie, Cheyenne, Aspen, Denver, the Grand Canyon and Flagstaff are also on the ticket.

    At some point, we will travel to Mukwonago, Wisconsin, where Nick was born and raised. It’s a small mid-Western town. You won’t find Kate Moss standing on the corner or a camera crew blocking the sidewalk. I don’t have to worry about the paparazzi or a traffic jam being created by yet another entertainment award show. It’s a significant destination for us because that’s where Nick’s family still resides. As a boy, with his siblings, Nick went ice fishing in the mid-western winters and swam in the lake during the summers.  I’ve never been ice-fishing. The closest I got to ice- fishing was in 1989. It was a New York City wet winter where I “fished” for my Marlboros in the pocket of my Moschino jacket before a Stephen Sprouse fashion show.  I don’t smoke anymore; the late Stephen Sprouse is now considered retro and I don’t know what happened to that Moschino jacket.

    With possibly most of my global escapades behind me, I now travel outside the States without ever leaving my kitchen, gratefully letting international flavors take me away. I decided to use Kim Sunee’s “Mouthful of Stars,” an exquisite cookbook hybrid with personal essays throughout. Published in 2014, it’s a beautiful publication containing mouth-watering images with Ms. Sunee’s sublime prose.  The former food editor for the defunct Cottage Living offers her anecdotes about travels to Mexico, Sweden, Paris and her New Orléans home. As much as I would like to go to Sweden, it’s not going to happen before I get to Ecuador, Peru, Mexico or Paris again. I thought I would cook her Swedish Beet and Apple Salad…. just to do a little kitchen traveling before the beginning of my homeland discoveries. (In 2009, Kim also wrote one of my favorite food memoirs Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love and the Search for Home.)

    Beets

    The salad is tart and savory with some horseradish heat. I loved the combination with the herbal dill, the crème fraiche richness, the red onion’s bite and sweetness of the beets and apples. Easy to make and very colorful for the holidays.

    Swedish Beet and Apple Salad (adapted from Mouthful of Stars, serves 2 – 3 people):

    You will need:

    • Two medium-sized beets, cooked (You can find cooked beets in the produce section if you don’t want to make your own.)
    • 1 Granny Smith Apple, coarsely grated.
    • One small red onion, thinly sliced with a mandolin.
    • Tablespoon of chopped and rinsed capers (or more to taste).
    • 1 to 2 tablespoons of fresh horseradish.
    • Tablespoon of chopped dill (or more to taste).
    • Several grinds of white pepper (Black pepper if you don’t have any is fine too).
    • 4 ounces of sour cream or crème fraiche. (Use the crème fraiche if you can find it. Most stores carry it in the fine cheese section. It makes a richer dressing.)
    • 2 to 3 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar.

    Let’s make this puppy:

    Chopped the cooked beets into ¼ sticks and place in a bowl. Put in the thinly-sliced onions and apple.

    In a small bowl and the remaining ingredients: crème, pepper, dill, capers, dill and horseradish. Stir. Add the apple cider to thin out the mixture. Stir until the desired consistency. (If you want a thinner dressing add a drop more vinegar.) Pour over the vegetables and apple, well-coating everything. Chill until ready to serve. Top with dill.

    Beet Apple Salad

    The End. Go Eat.

  • i8tonite: with Chef Ilson Goncalves of Samba and Acorn Moranga

    i8tonite: with Chef Ilson Goncalves of Samba and Acorn Moranga

    SambaMontclairAcornMorangaOne of the great things about the United States are our individual food stories. It’s inspirational to share epicurean traditions from one’s native country showcasing edible discoveries. Like many chefs, Ilson Gonçalves of Samba Montclair, was inspired by his Brazilian mother and her restaurant. Gonçalves makes annual pilgrimages to his birthplace, Blumenau, a small city located in Southern Brazil, to discover and re-imagine traditional and non-traditional recipes alike for his guests.

    Samba, the bring-your-own-bottle, 32-seat venue has been reviewed by many regional dining critics as well as the venerable The New York Times. The latter citing in an enthusiastic review, “The kitchen is small and the food that comes out of it is guileless: straightforward, hearty, built for comfort”. The dining writer ended his eating observations stating, “Diners…may be pleasantly surprised by Samba’s homey pleasures and mellow atmosphere. This Brazilian place proudly bops to a different beat.”

    All year round Samba offers stellar dining, but fall is really special when guests can avail themselves of Chef SambaMontclairOwnerIlsonGoncalvesGonçalves childhood Brazilian memories with signature dishes such as Mandioca frita com linguica calabresa e cebola (fried yucca with Brazilian pork sausage and caramelized onions), Bobó de camarão (yucca purée with coconut milk, tomatoes and onion served with whole shrimp and white rice) or Bifo a cavalo (thin pan fried steak topped with two fried eggs served with sautéed collard greens, white rice and breaded fried banana). New Jersey Monthly notes that Gonçalves “serves up an excellent version” of the traditional feijoada, Brazil’s national dish, a gently braised stew of black-bean, pork, dried beef, and linguiça.

    Samba’s success clearly lies with Gonçalves culinary skills, affection for his mother and Brazilian cooking techniques. It is a delicious and loving homage to Brazilian home-cooking and mothers who cook, inspiring generations to do the same.

    SambaMug

    Chef Questionnaire from Chef Ilson Gonçalves:

    How long have you been cooking? I learned to cook when I was 11 years old in my mom’s restaurant in Brazil.

    What is your favorite food to cook? Chicken soup.

    What do you always have in your fridge at home? Pomegranates. When I watch a movie, pomegranate for me is like popcorn.

    Photo by Shelby Stewart
    Photo by Shelby Stewart

    What do you cook at home? I don’t really cook much at home because I live by myself.

    What marked characteristic do you love in a customer? People who are open-minded about trying different foods.

    What marked characteristic do you find unappealing in a customer? The (individuals) who eat the whole plate then complain about the food.

    Tupperware, Rubbermaid, or Pyrex? Pyrex. I hate Tupperware. My mother used to have so much Tupperware that when I opened her cabinet it would fall on my head.

    Beer, wine or cocktail? Wine. But it depends, if I go to a bar with friends, I

    Photo by TravelJunction
    Photo by TravelJunction

    like beer.

    Your favorite cookbook author? I don’t follow cookbooks.

    Your favorite kitchen tool? You can do anything with a knife.

    Your favorite ingredient? Yucca. I think it’s very universal, like flour.

    Your least favorite ingredient? Cucumber. It makes me nauseous just to think about it.

    Least favorite thing to do in a kitchen? Wash burnt pans.

    Favorite types of cuisine to cook? Brazilian, but I’m biased.

    Beef, chicken, pork or tofu? Everything depends on what I’m in the mood for. I can’t eat tofu, though, because I’m allergic.

    Cassava
    Yucca/ Cassava: Photo by Tom Rulkens

    Favorite vegetable? Yucca.

    Chef you most admire? Alex Atala of D.O.M. in Sao Paulo, Brazil

    Food you like the most to eat? Rice and fried eggs.

    Food you dislike the most? Anything that has cucumber.

    How many tattoos? And if so, how many are of food? None. I think they look good on others, but I can’t see myself with tattoos.

    SambaAcornMoranga
    Acorn Moranga: Photo by Samba Montclair

    Recipe: Acorn Moranga

    • 2 medium acorn squash
    • 1 medium butternut squash, diced
    • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    • 2 medium white onions, diced
    • 4 gloves of garlic, minced
    • 1 pint heavy cream
    • 1 13.5 oz. can coconut milk
    • 1 lb. u12 shrimp
    • Parsley and cilantro for garnish
    • 1/4 cup shaved Parmesan cheese

    Cut acorn squash in half and remove seeds, creating a bowl. Cover squash with aluminum foil and cook in a 350 degree oven until tender,  60-75 minutes.

    Heat extra virgin olive oil in a large skillet. Over medium heat, cook the onion with garlic and caramelize the butternut squash.  When squash is tender, add the heavy cream and coconut milk and simmer. Add the shrimp and cook another 4 minutes.

    Pour the cooked butternut squash and shrimp mixture into the acorn squash. Garnish with parsley and cilantro and top with shaved Parmesan. Makes 4 servings.

    SambaFood

     The End. Go Eat.

     

  • I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette

    I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette

    Southern chef Hugh Acheson is the cooking star of the moment…albeit one who is humble and has a really good sense of humor. He proclaims on his website, “To Athens, (Acheson) is the guy who owns those restaurants, has one eyebrow, a wife far better looking than he is and two young children who are the apple of his eye.”

    I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette
    Photo Credit: Emily B. Hall

    And yes, with humor, there is always a modicum of truth but Acheson isn’t just the chef with one eyebrow, a beautiful wife and children and the guy who owns those restaurants – four to be exact — in Georgia which include his newest, The Florence (pictured above), the National, Empire State South and the one that started it all, 5 X 10. The Canadian-born but Southern food adopted Acheson is the chef who published an award-winning James Beard cookbook “A New Turn in The South” and won the prestigious award from the culinary organization for “Best Chef, Southeast”. In addition to these impressive accomplishments and many more, he has been awarded Food & Wine’s “Best New Chef” (2002), StarChefs.com “Mentor of the Year” (2012) and his town newspaper, The Atlanta Journal Constitution, presented him with “Restaurant of the Year”.

    I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette. Photo by Emily B Hall
    Photo credit: Emily B. Hall

    Currently, Acheson is promoting his book “The Broad Fork: Recipes for the Wide World of Vegetables and Fruits” (Clarkson Potter, 2015) which showcases his love of vegetables, his family and cooking in the Southern with simple and easy to use recipes.

    If you don’t live in the Atlanta/ Savannah, Georgia area, you have the potential of meeting Mr. Acheson in Los Angeles. He is cooking as the “All Star Chef” – along with “Local All Star Chefs” — Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo – for the James Beard Foundation’s “Night of Culinary Stars” on November 6, 2015. On November 7, he will be signing copies of his cookbook as well as demo-ing recipes at The Grove’s Sur La Table.

    Chef’s Questionnaire (with a nod to Proust):

     

    Chicken Arugula with Buttermilk Dressing. From I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette

    What is your favorite food?

    Carrots.

    What do you always have in your fridge?

    Feta, carrots, eggs, prosciutto.

    What do you cook at home?

    Roast chicken with gravy and rice.

    What marked characteristic do you despise in your customer?

    Everyone is different. I rarely despise anyone.

    What marked characteristic do you love in a customer?

    Adventurous eating.

    Tupperware, Rubbermaid, or Pyrex?

    Pyrex.

    I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette

    Beer, wine or cocktail?

    Wine.

    Your favorite cookbook author?

    Paula Wolfert.

    Your favorite kitchen tool?

    A bench scraper.

    Your favorite ingredient?

    Farro.

    Least favorite thing to do in a kitchen?

    Dishes, just like everyone else.

    Favorite types of cuisine to cook?

    Middle Eastern.

    Chef you most admire?

    Mike Solomonov.

    Food you like the most?

    Middle Eastern.

    Food you dislike the most?

    None.

    How many tattoos? And if so, how many are of food?

    Six. One radish is the only culinary one.

    Early Egg in The Hole. From I8tonite: with Chef Hugh Acheson featuring Butter Lettuce Salad with Feta, Radish and a Dill Pickle Vinaigrette

    Recipe: Butter lettuce salad with feta, radish, and dill pickle vinaigrette

    Clean the lettuce. Dry and set aside.

    In a blender, puree 1/2 a dill pickle and then add two tablespoons of cider vinegar and 1/3 cup of olive oil. Season with salt. Crumble some feta and slice some radishes, and then add those to the lettuces, lightly torn up to the size of your mouth. Dress to your taste. Toss well. Eat.

    The End. Go Eat.