Shrimp from the Gulf of California is some of the best in the world. Sweet, clean, and deeply tied to the Sonoran Desert. The Gulf helps create the Sonoran Desert’s five seasons, including the brief season when monsoon rains move into the arid landscape and everything responds by getting a little greener. It’s that connection between the sea and the desert that makes Sonoran and borderlands food so distinctive.

Thus, when Nick mentioned we were traveling to Phoenix from the Old Pueblo, for a family gathering of Midwest transplants featuring his cousins and a former childhood next-door neighbor from Wisconsin, I wanted to bring to the potluck something that felt inclusive of our new home. Knowing that the Gulf and the desert are like Lake Michigan is to the Midwest, I wanted to craft a shrimp dip with ingredients used in the borderlands that felt right and, of course, important. 

Using small frozen shrimp, chiltepín pepper, crema, lime and hints of the deep south, dill, instead of cilantro (because not everyone loves cilantro) seemed simple, spoonable onto a chip and delicious. While the main ingredient focused on the small shrimp, the Mexican crema added creaminess, the lime provided citrus notes, a dash of agave to temper the acidity, and the chiltepín added a burst of borderlands warmth. 

What’s interesting about Sonoran food, and about the Indigenous nations who have cooked here for centuries, is how much power there is in these foods. Chiltepín isn’t just a pepper; it’s considered the mother of all peppers. But not for its heat, but because botany experts believe it’s the original wild chile.  An indigenous ingredient that still grows wild along ravines and canyons, underneath shade, shielding it from the brutal desert elements.  It shows up in cooking every day, bringing the desert, the border, and the table. It doesn’t ask to be explained. It simply shows up as a reminder of what came before and is generous to those who pay attention.

Now that the holidays are over, I can really lean into the regions where there are fewer excessive dishes and more food that makes sense where I am.

I’m especially grateful right now to explore food and ingredients that began in North America but not as something chic, but as food history. Ingredients that are shaped by desert climates, with Indigenous knowledge and surviving milleniums. In the borderlands, ingredients move across borders, kitchens, and of course, across generations. No matter how much we try to maintain a foodways map, it does work that way. 

So I wanted something familiar enough for guests from the Midwest, but shaped by the desert and the borderlands.

Shrimp Salad with Chiltepín, Crema, and Lime
Serves 4–6 as a small plate or appetizer

Ingredients

•  1 pound small shrimp, peeled and deveined (frozen is fine), cooked and chilled
•  2–3 tablespoons thick Mexican crema (or crema espesa)
• 1–2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, plus lime zest if desired
• 1-2 teaspoons, chopped dill or cilantro. Nick doesn’t like the latter, so you improvise. 
• One stalk of celery, cut in half lengthways, and then diced. Add two if you want more crunch. 
•  ½–1 teaspoon crushed chiltepín pepper, to taste
• Salt to taste

Optional: 1–2 teaspoons olive oil

½ teaspoon ground coriander

1. Preparation
   If using frozen shrimp, thaw completely according to directions. Drain well. Spread the shrimp in a single layer on paper towels and pat dry thoroughly. For best texture, refrigerate uncovered for 20–30 minutes to remove any excess moisture.
2. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl and season lightly with salt and the crushed chiltepín. Toss gently and let sit for about 5 minutes. If any moisture releases, blot again with another paper towel. 
3. In another small bowl, whisk the crema until emuslified. Add lime zest. 
4. Add the crema to the shrimp along with the lime juice, starting with 1 teaspoon. Save the remainder of the lime for an accompanying margarita. Just sayin’. 
5. Toss gently to coat. Add olive oil, if using, for a silkier texture. Taste and adjust seasoning with more lime, salt, or chiltepín as needed.
6. Serve immediately, or chill briefly and toss again just before serving.

Note: Water may still accumulate while chilling. Use a slotted spoon or don’t mind that it’s not dry.