June is Pride Month in the United States. Indianapolis celebrates with a parade and all-day events on June 14 and 15. But being LGBTQ isn’t something we clock in and out of on the weekends: We were born this way (thank you, Gaga). We didn’t choose it. Thus, we shouldn’t
choose between authenticity and acceptance when eating or meeting up. We want spaces that are more than just inclusive for business optics. Establishments need to be genuine in their support of who we are.
For most of us, it often means seeking out LGBTQIA-owned restaurants, bars and coffee shops, where identity isn’t a marketing strategy. It’s brewed, baked and blended into the DNA. Since moving from Los Angeles to Indy five years ago, I’ve visited queer-owned restaurants, bakeries, and coffee shops across the state, from Fort Wayne to Evansville. These businesses don’t just serve the LGBTQ community; they employ locals and uplift their neighborhoods.
While we celebrate Pride this month, we also look toward Chicago, where the Oscars of the food world, the James Beard Awards, will be handed out June 16. It’s especially significant, considering James Beard himself was a gay man long before it was safe or celebrated to be out in public.
Today, the James Beard Foundation carries on his culinary legacy, honoring all chefs and restaurateurs, regardless of gender or identity expression, who feed us with creative and inspirational flavors.
“Food is our common ground, a universal experience, “ – James Beard
The couple, Adam Reinstrom and Pablo Gonzalez, opened Gather 22 in 2023. Named after its location on 22nd Street and as a place to convene, it showcases deliciousness from pizzas, sandwiches and cocktails. Like its owners, a mix of ethnicities and experiences from the West Coast to the Midwest, it is a place to meet up, have inspiring conversations and celebrate differences while eating and drinking well.
22 East 22nd Street, Indianapolis (Central) (317) 258-2222: IG, FB
In the small town of New Harmony, just outside of Evansville, Alex Gale and his baristas produce house-roasted beans and specialty coffees. What began as weekend meditation excursions for Gale to the new age-centered village along the Wabash River led Gale to discover and purchase Black Lodge Coffee Roasters. Since buying the shop in 2019, it’s become known for its bourbon-barrel coffee, eccentric events (sound baths, art exhibitions), and community outreach.
610 Church Street, New Harmony, (812) 682-2449 IG, FB
Lady Tron’s, a sci-fi homage serving delicious handcrafted soup and sandwiches, sits where Indiana meets the shores of the Ohio River. Owned by Alexa and Summer Seig, the duo serves a crowd of regulars from a vintage mobile diner outfitted in memorabilia from Star Wars to Elf and Star Trek. It’s an incongruous, madcap but tasty experience in a historic town that also served as part of the Underground Railroad.
The Huntingtonburg Grind, Huntingtonburg (Southern Indiana)
Smithsonian Magazine named Huntingtonburg one of the best small towns in the United States in 2024, but partners in life and business Chad Brian and Mike Voegerl, the latter growing up there, knew that already. Thus, they purchased the coffee shop on charming 4th Street, a four-block stretch of restored Queen Anne and Victorian architecture.
410 E. 4th Street, Huntingtonburg, (812) 684-8079 FB
Opened in 2008, this sushi-slash-Italian-slash-Chinese eatery is a delicious haven for downtown Indianapolis residents. With a full bar, it’s a well-designed gathering space for the LGBTQIA community and their friends. If the ramen noodles or street tacos don’t fit your Midwest tastebuds, they also serve a burger with fries. The owner, Bill Pritt, purchased Metro last year, an LGBTQ bar on Mass Avenue and plans to open Harrison’s on Delaware Street in an abandoned bank building this summer.
Four lovely baked Brazilian cheese rolls at Fernando’s
How Hoosier chefs made the potato, chicken liver, octopus, beef, pimento cheese and gluten-free bread the talk of my table
Nick and I have savored many of the diverse flavors of Indianapolis restaurants since our move to the city five years ago. I’ve had the opportunity to explore Indiana’s culinary landscape extensively, covering destinations for Culinary Crossroads for a year and a half. From the southernmost Evansville to Elkhart, in the north, a 10-minute drive to the Michigan border and other places, I’ve sampled a range of dishes, becoming well-versed in “Hoosier” food. Living here has expanded my tastebuds and evolved my understanding of the Midwest’s culture and people.
Exploring Indiana’s Diverse Culinary Landscape
I recently attended a conference where the speaker said, “Hoosiers either leave and never come back, or they never leave, traveling only 20 minutes outside their neighborhood.” It’s an exaggeration, clearly, but it’s not far from the truth. I’ve met many natives who may have been to Paris but not to the neighboring region. (Carmel to Fishers doesn’t count.) I can’t tell you how many times I’ve asked if native Hoosiers have been to Terre Haute, which recently elected its first Democratic mayor, Brandon Sukbhan, in a dozen years. The answer is “not since grade school” or “never.”
They should. It’s a diverse hamlet and indicates the changing demographics of Indiana. Sakbun, a former Army captain with model looks, a mega-watt smile, and Elvis Presley hair, is the son of a Cambodian father and a Jamaican mother; we ate at an Indian buffet near city hall, talking about his then-wife and soon-to-be first child.
The town, home to Clabber Girl Baking Powder, sold at Traders Joe’s throughout the land, is a swim to Illinois, just across the Wabash River. To get there from Indianapolis, though, a drive past small historic towns like Greencastle and Brazil, flush with red barns and still-working siloes, shows today’s farming. Tractors and bales dot the landscape.
Indiana’s Changing Food Scene: The Influence of New Demographics
I’m bringing this up because in a small town like Terre Haute, with a population of just under 60,0000 – my former Los Angeles block had more people – it’s important to note that the 21st-century demographics are changing how the middle of the country eats. It’s a story that doesn’t get told as the media chase stories about the modifying electorate. All we need to do is find out what people eat and where. Think about it: A mayor born of two immigrants leads a predominantly Caucasian city in the middle of the Midwest while eating Punjabi food.
How did I select my favorite? It was memorable—nothing more, nothing less. Nick and I talk about it or think about returning. After dining at Michelin-starred and James Beard Foundation-nominated experiences, or those I discovered across six continents and nearly 250 cities, I believe I am good at eating.
James Bear-nominated Chef Sean Richardson (Great Lakes Region) opened Rune Restaurant in Fort Wayne in March 2024. It’s a garden-to-table experience with twists and turns on different foods. Richardson makes an appetizer, fried chicken toast, and a large helping of house-made chicken pate smeared over Pullman bread. He gently fries the bread – as you would the Cantonese shrimp toast – and then flips it with a flour coating over the spreadable liver. Once cooked and warmed through, a slice of heirloom tomato, a drizzled white aioli and crunchy leftover bits. Mine featured a bit of nori, herbs and peanuts, and he was recreating the traditional dim sum in a Midwest way, using a loaf native to the region and lots of livers. While served on a plate, he repurposed an old menu that couldn’t be used again to keep the appetizer from careening off the plate instead of using a napkin. Just a touch of “greening.”
2725 Broadway, Fort Wayne, IN 46807, (260) 278-0674
Josh Kline’s rösti covered by an egg, bacon and sumac cream sauce
During an interview with Chef Josh Kline, owner of Borage, and his wife, Zoe Taylor, he said, “I love potatoes.” I do, too! However, he loves them so much that he came up with a new version I’ve never had. The everyday eater might think of them as hash browns. Still, rösti, a traditional Swiss dish, is anything but browned and grated fried spuds. Kline’s version makes the tuber a confit – soaked in oil for 24 hours before baking it. It may sound oily, but the resulting dish melts in your mouth with a crackling. Typically made for breakfast, his dish is an upscale version and, frankly, a meal unto itself. At brunch, he will top it with various proteins, from fish to an egg or two.
1609 N Lynhurst Dr, Indianapolis, IN 46224, (317) 734-3958, borageeats.com
Pão De Queji, Fernando’s Mexican & Brazilian Restaurant, Indianapolis
Four lovely baked Brazilian cheese rolls at Fernando’s
A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away…meaning Los Angeles on La Cienega Blvd, I had dinner at a Brazilian chain restaurant more than two decades ago. I ate tough cubes of beef, which, moments before being on my plate, had been flaming on a skewer passed around by an oddly dressed man, and the pão de queji set before me was a baseball, dense and leaden. That memory fired up when Nick and I dined at the year-old Fernando’s in Broad Ripple. Unlike then, we ate alfresco, removed from the street on the separate patio and dined on a mix of Mexican and Brazilian cuisines. Notably, they serve the tapioca-based pao de quiet, slightly chewy and savory pillow puff of chewy with nutty flavors of aged hard Italian cheese. I could eat these daily for the rest of my life, but only if I eat them here.
834 East 64th Street, Indianapolis, IN (317) 377-4779,
Commission Row’s Octopus Terrine with micro herbs and jalapenos.
Nick and I attended a press dinner for Commission Row, the breathtaking restaurant opened by Cunningham Restaurant Group and designed by Ration Architects. It sits on the eastern edge of Bicentennial Unity Plaza, on the Delaware Street side, with views of the public basketball court or ice rick, depending on the time of year. By the third dining experience, the impeccable server recommended the octopus terrine. A thinly sliced rectangle with rings of several cephalopods compacted is set before me. It’s a visually stunning dish of texture, spice and brine, with the pickled jalapenos giving a welcome dash of heat. Sublime eating.
Tacos are always the first thing people think of when they eat South of the Border food. That’s what I planned on eating when I walked into this Latina-owned restaurant in Frankfort, which, according to the 2020 U.S. Census, has a population of more than 16,000 and is one of Indiana’s farming communities tucked between cornfields and soybeans. After seeing a plate of empanadas pass by, I couldn’t resist the corn masa pockets stuffed with juicy braised chicken. My tastebuds reveled in the smokey achiote, garlic and onions permeating the filling. The tender golden crescent moon crust held a light sweetness and sturdiness to hold the meat without being tough or overly chewy. Three large hand-stuffed yeasty envelopes of poultry were more than sufficient, although I could have made it a meal with rice and beans that would have filled me into the next day.
408 N. Columbia Street, Franklin, (765) 601-4060, Facebook
I wrote a story about Indiana barbeque that was never published. In it, I argued that Indiana makes one of the great regional barbecues. Still, it never received the attention that others, partially because of the racism during the 1920s in the state—another story for another time. However, Mike and CJ McFarland smoke their meats in three different smokers outside a legion hall. Briskets, pulled pork, chicken are cured with locally sourced woods and seasoning, without sugar–brown or molasses in the open air, instead of indoors. Eaters get a wonderfully fruity yet succulent piece of meat from pitmaster McFarland’s patience over the embers. McFarland’s roots and cooking hailed from Owensboro considered the birthplace of American barbecue or, at least, pit-cooked mutton. Still, with beef and pork, he crafts his smoked meats, which are all Hoosier. They have two locations, but I visited them on South German Road.
We selected eight experiences from all the Indianapolis restaurants we dined in 2023.
We have a French bulldog puppy, Rufus. He came home this summer with us not long after our other Frenchie, J.J., passed. As I write this, the eight-month-old trundles through the backyard strewn with falling leaves. Sniffing. Munching on things that he shouldn’t. That is all he wants to do. Eat. Anything that might have a taste, he is willing to try. That journey of discovery, flavors and aromas compels him to sample anything in his path. George, our chocolate doesn’t help, either. Canine garbage can.
Strangely, as a human baby, that’s all we do, too. As we grow, we seek nourishment to strengthen and teach us. As an adult, I seek dining experiences that make me feel fortified, give me vigor and energy, and are memorable. I think that way as I continue going through my remaining years.
In the Midwest, it’s difficult for a gay man of color who grew up in progressive areas to have a favorable reception, even in a very blue city. Having worked as a waiter in New York City restaurants to pay my college tuition, I met the world, all races, creeds and colors. To be even more specific, as a server at Soho Kitchen & Bar, my colleagues came from Tunisia, Jamaica, the Netherlands, the country of Georgia, Mexico, Venezuela, France, Israel and China. Of course, the U.S. came out on top with struggling artists from various disciplines, hailing from every corner but many from the Midwest. With so many backgrounds and different religions, we learned under this one roof about wines and food. The cavernous space focused on essential bar eats – pizzas, wings, salads, pasta – to accompany the star, the new global world of wine tasting. It was the first restaurant to offer 110 varietals from every grape-growing region. They even had 75 beers on tap. We needed to attend weekly Thursday tastings; sickness and a doctor’s note would get us out from a Kevin Zraly-taught sommelier (it might even have been Mr. Zraly himself a few times). It was the beginning of an eatery to offer such a vast line-up of flights, a now ubiquitous term for small tastes of anything.
I bring this up because I have faced bigotry, intolerance, and racial discrimination throughout my life. While I expected to see it, I didn’t think it would bother me as now that I’m older. And, I thought after all the pandemics and epidemics we have collectively weathered over the last 50 years, it would have been a moot point.
While I would love to say what food and beverage company have treated me in such a fashion, I’m not going to give them any credit.
All of this to say, everyone should work in a restaurant. You may not like everyone, but you are there to ensure your customers eat and drink well.
When I thought about the list, I wanted to include Midwest restaurants where we have eaten over the past year. Then, as I mentioned, the New York Times 50 Best Restaurants came out without even a whisper of Indiana. I thought it was unfair and not democratic in the least. Selecting 50 establishments implies one from every state, not only a set number with several in one location. Also, we paid for every meal. It wasn’t because we had a media pass.
Here are the final three for i8tonite. They should get a T-shirt.
Four years ago, Nick took a position in Indianapolis. We visited the city seeking a place to live before his start date in Fall 2019. That was the first time I stepped onto Midwest soil. I had eaten everywhere but the Midwest. As a public relations professional in various industries, including tourism and hospitality, I could boast about sleeping and eating on six continents and over 200 destinations. Before my debut flight to this patch of green – Nick is from Wisconsin – I researched places to eat. I couldn’t live in some place without good food. Two of the places I selected were Cafe Patachou and Napolese, two of Martha Hoover’s establishments.
We found a house around the corner from Martin Luther King Jr. Park & Memorial. Napolese, the pizza and wine bar, still stands as a favorite – notably because they offer gluten free, but Petit Chou Bistro holds a special place. The establishment is inclusive, as are all of Ms. Hoover’s places, making everyone feel welcome. Bright plastic flowers and garland edging the windows make it feel like perpetual spring, and I feel a surge of Gallic love without the price of an airline ticket. Of course, the food is delicious Parisian bistro fare such as omelets, salads, rillettes, burgers, steak, and frites. The combination of everything makes me feel good about dining here: the food, the atmosphere and the service.
Pork Chop Crusted with ras al hanout, Brian Garrido
Husband and wife team Chef Samir Mohammed and his wife Rachel Firestone launched this 35-seat restaurant in 2020 at the beginning of the pandemic. It took me three years to get here, but it was one of the most memorable meals I had anywhere this year, including places in New York, Chicago, and Nashville. It’s a gem, situated a few doors from the Noblesville landmark courthouse and about a 45-minute drive from downtown Indianapolis. Its diverse menu featuring American classics and globally inspired dishes has already captured attention.
On the night that we were there, the menu, which changes monthly, offered gluten-free hushpuppies, a ras al hanout crusted pork chop on a bed of saffron risotto, and a luscious rib eye with butter and fingerlings. While it was simple, there was a deft execution from a chef who knew his ingredients, primarily local Indiana produce and meats, to serve their customers who traveled to get there.
Nominated for a James Beard award for the Great Lakes region, Mohammed and Firestone should win in the coming years. It offers rustic and welcoming interior decor, attentive service, and delicious flavors from the Mediterranean, Middle East, Southwest, and California in America’s heartland.
Pork Belly Sandwich, courtesy of Facebook, Love Handle
When I first ate at Love Handle, it was love at first bite. Scrumptious lumberjack breakfasts and thick Dagwood sandwiches populate the handwritten chalkboard. It’s an eating experience of depth, clogged arteries and breathtaking flavors. For example, a typical daily special included a roast pork belly sandwich with homemade guacamole, pea shoots, red salsa, three cheeses melted, pickled red onion, and Sport pepper. And for those vegetarians, one can sup on baked taleggio grilled cheese, raspberry compote, marinated spinach, and a sunny-side-up egg.
The brainchild of Chefs Chris and Ally Benedyk – she makes the sweets – I feel a touch of Southern California kitschy nostalgia when I dine here. It’s a mish-mash of thrift store finds and curiosities that can help bring on a conversation for a first date or perhaps end it. There is a quarter-munching video game, curated clown paintings, and paint-by-numbers pulled out of second-hand bins, creating an eclectic atmosphere to match the food.
It’s not a place for dieters, but one can have a pound of pulled pork if need be. And it’s tough for those who are celiac or gluten intolerant, but the sandwiches can’t be found anywhere but right here in Indy. That’s a good thing.
877 Massachusetts Ave., Indianapolis, IN, United States, Indiana
Our favorite meals over the last year.And a ThanksgivingHasselback Potato Recipe.
I spoke to a born and bred Hoosier who said to me, “Hoosiers are humble. We don’t talk about the great things we offer.” In today’s day and age of marketing and promotion, no one wants to dine at your table if they don’t know what’s available. We have many opportunities to promote local Indiana food entrepreneurs, and we should. A friend and former editor-in-chief of the biggest food magazine in the world said her life was about traveling to eat. In 2004, London-based food writer Andy Hayler went to every three Michelin-starred restaurants worldwide and was the first to do so. He continued to do it six more times until the pandemic. Traveling for food is big business.
Having lived, worked and promoted destination and resort towns across the United States and internationally for most of my life, it’s always about the food and drink first, even more so than the hotels. Think about heading to Napa Valley without the wine? Leaving the lackluster conference hotel room, the food – and service –will make or break the experience. Before living in Indy, except once, I never read about great food from the Hoosier state, but there are stellar places. I’ve eaten at them.
Four years ago, Nick and I spent my first birthday in Indy at Tinker Street, one of the city’s mainstays, which I place as one of the finest eateries in the Midwest. Opened in 2015, the small restaurant on 16th Street in the historic district of Herron Morton provides Chef Tyler Shortt an opportunity to be creative with Indiana-grown ingredients. It’s one of the few restaurants that promote the area farmers while also being in the 21st century with a female sommelier, Ashlee Nemeth, and providing reservations.
Shortt’s recipes showcase regional agriculture, corn and tomatoes, and meats like duck and pork. That’s a good thing. The New American fusion – that ubiquitous term that uses herbs and spices from international flavors with European cooking methods – shows in the sauces such as the yuzu garlic aioli on the scallop and scallion risotto or the cappelletti with a Korean braised short rib. It’s an eating destination where one is never disappointed in the food or service. Importantly, it’s that place you bring your Chicago, Los Angeles and New York City friends when they finally come to visit you. Thankfully, it’s 21 and over, too.
A graduate of Ivy Tech’s Culinary School, Chef Tia Harrison, who catered for ten years before opening her restaurant called Chef Tia & Co., started serving her wings as a special on Wednesdays. Upon being one of two $25,0000 Discover Financial Services recipients to support Black-owned food entrepreneurs, she opened her first standalone devoted to the hump day special on Keystone. It’s a pickup and delivery spot with over a thousand reviewers from happy customers giving it a thumbs up. Ms. Harrison creates mighty tasty wings and loaded fries from this location. And as a customer, your choices feel endless. Who knew there were so many variations on wings? Naked or breaded, bone-in, boneless, and vegan, made with cauliflower florets and tossed in almost a dozen hand-crafted sauces that make everything finger-licking good.
Parmesan garlic is a house specialty, and the spicy jerk BBQ fires up the tastebuds, but no one can do wrong with the hot honey. If you’re visiting Indianapolis, have them delivered to your room and source a wine from one of the Black female winemakers in Indiana (Sip & Share or Cultured Urban Winery). You will remember the meal much more than the keynote speaker.
Since debuting in 2021, Harrison opened two more this year, one in Cincinnati and another downtown Indy location.
I’m fascinated by Carmel’s carefully planned community design, so much so that I often drove by Carmel’s Anthony Chophouse without noticing. The developed city has entranced me with its perfect walkways and storefronts, that I missed the illuminated sign, mistaking it for another chain.
But once inside, they transport you past the white picket fences and into a South Beach atmosphere, exuding sex appeal. A gas fireplace framed by brick illuminated the staircase leading upstairs and packed the bar area with crowds of Carmelites — sculpture and texture play in the dining room, with Rat Pack chocolate-covered banquettes and brass mid-century lights. A wood-planked floor allows for runway arrivals of Manholos and To Boots before stepping onto a modern weave. And, of course, the glass-walled kitchen allows diners to see the back of the house between sips of ready-to-pair meat cabernets.
As for the boeuf, it was standard with freshly seared ribeye and filets. We like the flight of beef, like tastes of wine, that featured four-ounce portions of USDA prime, grass-fed, and Wagyu. We have yet to eat in every steakhouse in the world, but we found this to be a novel idea. Dining at a butcher emporium, for the most part, is about something other than the steaks. It’s about the wine, the cocktails, service, appetizers and the sides. Diners will find creativity in these dishes, wine menu and libations. The bone marrow, harvest pig and the gambas pil pil are worth visiting every single evening. And if we could afford it, we would.
Optional toppings: grated cheese, chopped herbs (such as rosemary or thyme), garlic powder, paprika, sour cream, bacon bits, or any preferred toppings
To Make:
Preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C). Wash the potatoes thoroughly and pat them dry with a kitchen towel. Place a potato on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, make vertical slices across the potato, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart, ensuring it does not cut all the way through. Pro tip: To prevent cutting through the potato, place chopsticks or wooden spoons on either side to act as a barrier.
Drizzle olive oil or melted butter over the potatoes, making sure to get some in between the slices. Use your hands or a brush to evenly coat each potato with oil or butter.
Season generously with salt and pepper, ensuring the seasoning gets into the crevices.
Optional: Add your preferred toppings such as grated cheese, chopped herbs, garlic powder, or paprika between the slices or on top of the potatoes.
Place the baking sheet or dish in the preheated oven and bake for about 50-60 minutes, or until the potatoes are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The cooking time may vary depending on the size and type of potatoes used.
Once done, remove the potatoes from the oven and let them cool slightly for a few minutes before serving.
Serve the Hasselback potatoes as a side dish with your favorite main course. Optionally, garnish with additional toppings like sour cream or bacon bits before serving.
The New York Times, my favorite daily read, published their third annual The Restaurant List: The 50 places in the United States that we’re most excited about right now” in September. While the title implies coverage of 50 states, they only selected restaurants in 28 states, doubling or tripling eateries in locations. Of course, they missed Indiana. They also bypassed 31 other states, including New Mexico, Arizona, and Kentucky.
Montana made it, as did Iowa. For Illinois, they named two, but they were both in Chicago. One in Minnesota and another in Michigan. In California, they gave Los Angeles three and San Francisco, shockingly, only one. For a bit of context, the late LA Weekly’s Jonathan Gold uncovered one hundred in the robust L.A metro area annually.
That’s not to say the restaurants didn’t deserve to be placed on the list. It’s only misleading. As much as I like the idea of Big Sky Country, I’m not going to Montana anytime. People could say that about Indianapolis, which is where I write this. However, we are a centerpiece in the Midwest. A four-hour drive to Nashville, Milwaukee and Detroit. Three hours to Chicago and St. Louis and ninety minutes to Cincinnati, Louisville and Dayton. If I drove four hours anywhere from Los Angeles, which is where we lived before we moved here, I would still be in California. Possibly, Tijuana depending on the traffic.
Therefore, I wanted to create a simple list of my favorite eats that I’ve had in three Midwest states. My objective is to highlight the many experiences that didn’t make the cut with the Grey Lady.
Although, I’ve traveled to six states this year, including New York City twice, where I cut my teeth while working and eating at some of the best restaurants. I’m disqualifying anything beyond the Midwest.
Besides, Indiana gets a bad rap on the food front. Writing for Edible Indy and Culinary Crossroads for the last four years has opened my eyes to great Midwest talent. Indiana chefs and food artisans deserve recognition.
Over the next four weeks, I will post my favorites.
We begin with….
Lady Tron’s, New Albany, Indiana: Underneath the sci-fi memorabilia in a vintage Valentine’s portable diner, Lady Tron’s owner and chef, Summer Sieg, creates flavor combinations worthy of Mos Eisley Cantina on the planet Tatooine (Star Wars, 1977). Actually, that’s not true. She makes tasty sandwiches and soups for human and earthbound consumption.
On a recent Facebook post, her specials featured a vegan coconut, sweet chili vegetable ramen, and a white chicken chili. It sat alongside a mozzarella and bacon grilled cheese with artichoke and spinach on a Hawaiian roll. On the daily menu, eaters must try a stunning Uhura, a large eight-ounce portion of cod, deep-fried with a satisfying messy crunch, atop a toasted bun with a generous spread of garlic, jalapeno, and shredded iceberg lettuce. Or, for a vegetarian combo, an offering of smoked gouda and provolone grilled cheese on garlic butter and herb sourdough.
The dining space seats only 10 at a counter with Summer’s wife, Alexa Lemley Sieg, acting as sole waitron. You can find this in the charming artistic hub of New Albany, directly across the Ohio River from Louisville. The restaurant is a stone’s throw from the Town Clock Church, one of the first stops of the Underground Railroad. It’s a poignant reminder of what the area meant to many on the trail.
147 East Market St, New Albany, IN, United States, Indiana
(812) 725-9510
Perrillo’s Pizzeria, New Salem, Indiana: Nestled in the heart of North Salem, Indiana, Perillo’s Pizzeria not only brings the flavors of Sicily to Hendricks County but also crafts phenomenal pizza. Chef Damiano Perillo, who received a culinary degree in his hometown of Palermo, Sicily, honors the American farmer while providing Italian cooking lessons in every dish prepared.
Using fresh ingredients, often from the Perillo family farm and their neighbors, sets Perillo’s apart. He only needs to go out and pick his ingredients grown in acres, not wood boxes, underneath the cloudless, cerulean skies. They cultivate vegetables by providing ingredients from their land to ensure the ultimate farm-to-table experience. He also prioritizes Indiana farmers, forming a kinship with the local agricultural community.
Perusing the menu for an ex-NYC straphanger reminds me of walking along Little Italy’s Elizabeth Street and reading the handwritten paper versions housed in a weatherproof glass box. They swathe the delicious listed items in a deep red, Marcella Hazan-like tomato sauce, salty meats, and milky mozzarella, filling a crusty, luscious dough. In the Midwest, you will be hard-pressed anywhere within 100 miles to find a Sicilian deep dish, hand tossed, with a chewy crust, pulled strands of gooeyness, unless you ate here, a literal pin, on a Google map, two and a half hours south of Chicago and 45 minutes to Indianapolis.
Perillo’s rehabbed a former 19th century doctor’s office to become his restaurant. Its whitewashed facade brings to mind a bohemian pottery store in the East Village. There is ample outside space to sip one of the nice reds or a local Indianapolis brewery.
The Washington Post recently noted the establishment as having one of the best NY-style pies in the Hoosier state, ranked by Yelp. I might even say the Midwest. It is a pizza haven bordering on heaven.
Making your own Middle Eastern dip tastes better than store bought.
After a year and a half of living in our second and newest Indy neighborhood, Nick and I had our neighbors, a couple, for a repast of small bites. He made the cocktails and I served a wheat-free pizza (gluten-free store bought), Buffalo wings, a charcuterie and cheese board with Norwegian crispbread and GF crackers and hummus.
While sipping on her New Zealand Sauvignon blanc, washing down the cracker topped with the Middle Eastern dip, Tricia commented, “Everything is delicious, but I need your recipe for the hummus. It’s really good!”
I’ve been making the chickpea and tahini dip for close to 30 years now, long before its ubiquity in the refrigerator section of the grocery store. I discovered it at Yaffa Cafe, an East Village eatery which opened in the early eighties but closed in 2014. It was an eclectic spot in an area growing with creativity. Then, I ate as a vegan and this was one of the few restaurants that I could afford that offered meat and dairy free dishes. It also expanded my horizons with food. I wasn’t stuck with eating rice and beans anymore. I discovered Mediterranean foods.
In order to make this delicious item, I would walk a few blocks to a natural grocery store called Commodities in Tribeca. (I saw Blondie’s Chris Stein and the late John F. Kennedy, Jr. there). Housed in a massive cast-iron building, I found freshly ground nut butters like peanut, almond and sesame (tahini) by the pound and also lots of meat substitutes like seitan and tofu. Going there for groceries felt like heaven, although it wasn’t inexpensive by any stretch. I relegated my purchases to specific items.
The only special thing I needed was a food processor. Unless you’re into hand grinding things into a paste with a molcajete, it’s a must have. A NYC boyfriend had one which he never used. Purchased by his parents when he moved to Manhattan, it was an unwieldy contraption that was as heavy as a cement brick. And that is how I started making this hummus.
During my time in New York, I made the bean spread for every party at the loft I lived in with two roommates. We served guacamole, crackers, chips and sliced baguettes and sangria nearly every weekend.
While I would say taking a trip to Manhattan and eating Middle Eastern food on the Lower East Side would be divine, staying home can be just as fun.
While I started with the Silver Palate cookbook recipe, I adapted it to suit my tastes over the years. Add roasted vegetables such as red peppers or carrots if you like. Pop them in as you hit pulse or blend on the machine. For a bit of fun, make a traditional pesto, omitting the nuts. Or leave them in and stir in before serving for a swirl of color and flavor.
Manhattan to Indy Hummus
1 can of chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed
3 cloves garlic, minced
Juice of half a lemon. Remove seeds. (I can see someone saying, “Do I remove the seeds?”)
1/2 cup of tahini. (Make sure you stir the oil and paste if separated.)
1 cup of water (You will use this to slowly drizzle, thinning out the hummus, giving it a smoother consistency.)
A couple of glugs of extra virgin olive oil
A pinch of salt (adjust to taste)
Dusting of hot paprika (optional, for garnish)
Flaky sea salt like Maldon’s (optional, for garnish)
How to make:
In a food processor or blender, combine the chickpeas, minced garlic, lemon juice, tahini, olive oil, and salt. Process the mixture until smooth. If it seems too thick, add water (¼ cup at a time) until you reach the desired consistency. If you add too much liquid, add more tahini.
Taste the hummus and adjust the seasoning by adding more salt or lemon juice if needed. Transfer the hummus to a bowl. Finish with a little olive oil on top and sprinkle with hot paprika and salt for added flavor and presentation.
Refrigerate any leftovers. When serving again, add tahini and/or water to freshen up.
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